I am one of the most well-positioned travel experts in the industry to do airline reviews, having once been head of IATA's meeting management worldwide. It was my job to coordinate meetings for every airline in the world from Baggage Handling, Live Animals on Board, Passenger Safety to issues like Volcanic Ash and Wake Vortex. Today, I'm more interested in passenger experiences. What really happens on flights: before, during and after. My airline reviews are candid accounts from the perspective of a travel veteran, expert voyageur and frequent flier.


I rolled the dice and got a double six!

Yes, yes….I can hear your sarcastic groans, as you writhe over my awful cliché comment. But then, that’s the prerogative of a writer sitting on his side of the screen. He has artistic licence to lob literary hand grenades at the mooing crowds!

The first time I visited the Double-Six Luxury Hotel in Seminyak was on a whirlwind site inspection with 20 or so fellow travel experts. We were on the downward slope of a somewhat tortuous schedule and this one was at the “nether” end of the line and week.

I went through the property around 9pm with nodding motions that culminated in a mild, aching disdain and indifferent thoughts. My focus had not been on the hotel, but my weary body and hunger pains.

My second visit was five months later and voluntary. I happened to be staying a few kilometres away at the Downtown Villas near the Bintang Market. I wanted to see the Double-Six in a real light and without tired and aching blinkers.

On that lunchtime trip I experienced the token zing and pizzazz of the restaurants and bars. I saw the rooms…again. They looked so much better. I was in my personal mode, wearing an off-duty hat, not a professional one. I walked away with an incomplete feeling and an impulsive urge to stay there.

On my return to Perth, I booked a stay.

Bloggers Don’t Do This

My return visit was less of a gamble than a need. At itch that needed scratching. I had been particularly compelled by some friends who had raved about the Double-Six. “This may be the best hotel we’ve stayed in” was their conclusion.

This was totally contrary to my own, preconceived notions. And very soon I would be eating my own humble apple pie.

Arriving at the Double-Six Luxury Hotel

There’s no grand façade awaiting you or giant Corinthian columns dripping in acanthus leaves. Your arrival is quite surgical after the customary security bomb check and short, winding twist to the drop off zone.

“Mind the step,” I’m reminded, as I move out of my car and into the dark and massive el fresco lobby.

I take note of the staff. Cool. Very cool. Love the outfits. Guys in sort of 1920’s grey and white styled culottes, linen waist coats, plain tweed caps. Girls in light flowing, breezy outfits. Immaculate. They match. Colour, contrast and texture.


You scoot across a massive, shining, white marbled floor with the odd, inset butterfly. The lobby area is surprisingly dark. And then you are greeted by what I can only describe as nymphs: more super-beautiful people only this time, ones want your money!

I part with it…willingly. I’ve arrived in heaven.



My Room

This is my silent epiphany. A wiggle through the door and waggle past a corner and then into the most amazing space. It is hard to describe the moment when your eyes go from Ferrari, to snail. But trust me, it happens.

First impressions are everything, even when you’re downright sweaty, tired and desperate to unwind. You don’t really soak up the nuances and twists. But I did. And the funny thing is that I had actually been in this room two times before. As a kind of lemming being rushed through a semi-arduous industry process to “experience” it. As a travel guru that might bring business through the door.

Up until that moment, I’d never stayed at the Double-Six Luxury Hotel. And up until that moment, I had never wanted to either.

The Lounge & Bathroom

Two areas are clearly defined in the enormity of the suite: the bathroom to left; the bedroom and lounge to the right. The entire space is long and leading. It smacks of modernity. The pool and ocean views are compelling. The entire feel is soothing and rewarding.

As you turn towards the living space, a dark banquette creates delineation.  It is a big dollop of space that is almost less interesting than the bathroom. But it is there. Bed and all. Staring at the ocean view.

The banquette is massive, but not functional. It is like a restaurant serving station but I’m not in a kitchen. But I like the simplicity and clean lines.

I look for the plugs. I always do. There aren’t enough. Where do I charge things? Phone? Computer? Camera? Such a big working area and so few outlets.

I’m annoyed. I see only one plug. In my mathematics one plug equals one device. The place is out-of-date.  As for decoration, spartan springs to mind. A clever use of nothingness and yet everything. The sheer curtains are faux, yet they add body and volume to the carriage-like room. They may have no function. But they add style. The concept works especially at night when the touch of soft lighting adds a tinge of sexiness to the room.

And then there’s the bed. The view from the bed. Wow. Zzzzzzz.


The Bathroom

If there was ever an award for bathroom space, this hotel would be nominated.

The contrasting dark mosaic wall tiles are countered by large swathes of white floor tiles and an imposing, rectangular ceramic bath tub.  “His and her” washbasins are separated by a recessed and padded two-seater bench. A rain forest shower has no doors. The toilet has floor to ceiling clouded glass for privacy.

Everything in the bathroom seems to glint, but never too bright to be offensive: mirrors, down lights, wall tiles, chrome taps and towel rails.

The space may be angular and moody, yet it was neutral in tone and soft in outcome.

DOUBLE-SIX swimming pool lounges

DOUBLE SIX LUXURY HOTEL SEMINYAK review swimming pool people

DOUBLE SIX LUXURY HOTEL SEMINYAK swimming pool night lights

The Pool

The pool wraps around the ocean side of the hotel, cut at intervals by two foot bridges giving access to the beach and road below. A smattering of umbrellas provide perfect shade, with comfy lounges.  Troops of attentive staff bustle too and fro between the bar and restaurant. You want for very little, at any one time.

There is almost no noise or traffic emanating from the road; in fact I barely remembered it was there. And for the little relaxation time I did have to myself, I did choose to be by the swimming pool mostly. The beach is fabulous in the morning, prior to 9.30am, and then the sun and noise kicks in.

DOUBLE SIX hotel review COCCOON restaurant and bar

Noise Fears

I’m never one to sit on my hands when I’m bugged by something and such was the case with the Double-Six Luxury Hotel. It had nothing to do with the hotel itself. It had everything to do with its surroundings. I was fearful that guests would be blighted by noise because of neighbouring bars and beach entertainment.

I know you don’t expect travel writers or bloggers to say this kind of thing, but I take my job very seriously. My comments and opinions carry enormous weight especially when they are read by over 20,000 people. My readers and clients expect the truth and not a fluffy fill for staying somewhere free.

My booking at the Double-Six was driven by a quest for knowledge. It was not a holiday for me. I was on a mission of discovery.  I needed to know if noise was an issue. I did not book the hotel to sit by the pool and sup on fine food and cocktails. Unwittingly, my hotel room was a prime location to determine this. Thankfully, I have good news to report.

First of all, the balcony doors are thick glass and almost nothing penetrates through them. Sure, the beach is a hive of activity as the sun sets and the crowds dig into their bean bags and cocktails. Live music is pervasive and generally awful (in that the musicians cannot sing in tune). But it is not offensively loud. The double-glazed balcony doors filter out the music so effectively that you are only left with muted vocals. The bad news is that if they cannot sing in tune, you left with a free comedy show that sounds like muffled out-takes from the worst X-Factor auditions! The good news is that the live music does not last long.

I’m no longer the spritely teenager that parties late into the night. I tend to hit the hay early and at no time was I woken by anything more than the sound of waves crushing on the beach. Even that was mildly disturbing, despite the fact that I have my own beach house that is closer to the water and that too, wakes me up sometimes.

The loudest noise comes from the Coccoon Bar to the left, but you almost have to be there to experience the worst of it. You are generally shielded by the Double-Six Luxury Hotel as the Coccoon is recessed back from the road. Here they have a happy hour, two-for-one session, that is abrasively loud but does not last long into the night. But if you want to watch the odd drunk person wallowing by the water’s edge, knock yourself out. It’s not very inviting and I actually never heard the bar again during my stay.  That being said, I still have this haunting image of a large, braided Irish woman, double fisting cocktails into her mouth and smoking at the same time!

DOUBLE SIX Hotel breakfast eggs benedict

DOUBLE SIX LUXURY HOTEL SEMINYAK review breakfast buns fresh

DOUBLE SIX LUXURY HOTEL SEMINYAK review Italian Food restaurant dessert selections

Food & Dining

The Double-Six offers a good choice of dining venues. On this visit, I mostly stuck to the poolside for my early morning breakfast, as I had to film before guests woke up. I had the choice of eating on the level above, at the Seminyak Italian Food, but I did that before. What I can say is how good the food is at both locations. I’m a bit of a food snob when it comes to breakfasts and I rate the Double-Six in the top 10 places in Seminyak. The coffee was excellent, service impeccable, bread choices wonderful and every time, my eggs benedict cooked to perfection. Juices were ripe and fresh. What more could I ask for but a perfect setting which I got.

Rooftop Sunset Bar

I have mixed thoughts about the Rooftop Sunset Bar and that’s because I have been to so many great rooftop bars in the world. This, however, is not one of them.

Sure, the view is impressive, covering 1700 square meters, but where are the people?

The measure of a good rooftop bar is the crowd. This is the real litmus test.

On the three occasions I visited, the patrons would have dwindled into about 20 square meters. Even the ‘pods’ or circular seated areas (that you pay a premium) for were only 50% full. Mind you, I was always early (around 9 o’clock). At that time, the music was daggy and 80ish, and in some ways, so was the disco décor. The dance floor was always empty. Yet I could not help feeling that this was a good thing. Too many people would mean too much bustle and probably, excessive noise. I think I’ll sit on the fence on this one. May be next time I visit I’ll stay away longer to experience the night life.

DOUBLE SIX LUXURY HOTEL review beach at night bean bags colours

DOUBLE SIX LUXURY HOTEL local bars colours

The Beach

I did visit the beach every night and I have to say I loved the chilled out, laid back vibe there. Colours fill the sands everywhere from the bean bags to bamboo poles and flags. But buyers beware, service is slow and you do get the token beach hawkers constantly trying to flog you trinkets or substandard paintings or neon, flashing toys.

Final Thoughts

I have learnt again, never to judge a book by its cover. If I ever had a negative thought before my stay, or preconceived judgement, they have all been dispelled now.

The Double-Six Luxury Hotel is a truly wonderful location both for privacy, exclusivity and access.

The beachfront offers tranquillity and calm and you never lose the feeling of privacy. It kind of sits in its own enclave, slightly raised above the road and you barely see or hear anyone approaching from the beach. I spent most of my limited time by the swimming pool, using the beach only for morning or evening walks.

The rooms are stunning and truly spacious. Bar the absence of electrical plugs catering for modern travellers, I found nothing to fault.The staff deserve significant and standout praise. From the front desk check-in and bellhops, to waiters, waitresses and pool staff, everyone was impeccably dressed, kind and courteous.

Double-Six offers free golf cart shuttle rides to Seminyak Square or further towards the Bintang Market (Downtown Villas). I advocate using them to experience more of the Seminyak area and to enhance your hotel stay.


I had big expectations going to the Marina Bay Sands hotel in Singapore, after all, it does stand out from the crowd as one of the true icons of the Singapore skyline. And that is where (unfortunately) the good news ends. I had already been to the Pan Pacific and the Raffles Hotel. And if these two forebears were a litmus test, then the Marina Bay Sands crashed and burned on impact. It was a slap-in-the-face to my understanding of customer service and it began as soon as I entered the giant foyer.

In fairness to the Marina Bay Sands, this venue is one giant throng of heaving flesh…everywhere. There is zero room for the personal touch, as almost everyone and everything scurries from taxi to elevator dragging suitcases on un-oiled, squeaky wheels. Yet the whole place unquestionably runs like a well-greased machine, best suited to the convention fraternity, or the Willy Wonka factory. Bodies are designed to be cranked out, farmed into bedrooms and then harvested like a cash crop.

I too was a victim.

I felt like a number. An insignificant one. The whole of my stay.

MARINA BAY SANDS HOTEL review The Walking Critic room view


Peace reigned and a sense of normality and quietness returned when I entered my room, which though small, was diametrically pricey and fabulous. I was lucky enough to have a floor-to-ceiling view overlooking the CBD, from where I could watch the sun go up (and down) with the shimmer of boat wakes amusing me as they shuttled across the bay drawing white lines. I kicked off my shoes, placed my outstretched feet across the glass coffee table, photographed them like all women do on beaches, and then sucked up the mesmerising urban scenery before me.

It was a perfect moment of reflection from 40 floors up.

The bed was snug and comfortable; a tiny writing desk provided a compact work area for my laptop.  It was pretty much a room for short term convenience and probably designed as such. The bathroom was likewise modern with neutral tones and marble finishes. Nothing too lavish or over the top.


MARINA BAY SANDS HOTEL REVIEW Singapore infinity pool couple


MARINA BAY SANDS HOTEL REVIEW Singapore roof top at night



I’m not a big fan of public swimming pools. For obvious reasons, I refer to them as “pee soup” since most kids (and probably adults) have a penchant for relieving themselves in the water.

As a consequence, I am a marred man.

I have experienced two unforgettable episodes in my life when I have ended up with an ear infection from swimming in floating guano. Once was in Nassau, the Bahamas, when (by the way) both my ears were squeezed completely closed by exceptionally painful swellings (abscesses) They took five days to burst. The other (second torture) was at Cap d’Antibes in the South of France. That episode I will never forget as long as I live. I was eight years old.

It was an emergency, or as the French would have said, “Un urgence“. And now that I’m older, and wiser, I’ve just figured out that the english stole the word “emergency” from the French for their inability to say “urgency!”

At that time I didn’t care. I was reeling in pain.

Le docteur appeared and diagnosed my agony with my first ever prescribed suppository. As you can imagine, that image is still etched into the interior of my scalp.

I remember having to clutch my ankles in the shower as my mother inserted a conically shaped, greased pill into my rectum. It was an inordinately uncomfortably “cure” and totally alien to my 8-year-old understanding of modern medicine and “oh la la!”

I remember asking my mum, “If I have an ear ache, why do you have to shove something up my bum?”

Maui Jim glasses at the bar


The Marina Bay Sands is famous for its rooftop infinity pool and despite my reservations of climbing into the water, I was resigned to having a swim there. I wanted to tick another square on my ill-informed bucket list. To not do so, would be like going to Paris for the first time and avoiding the Eiffel Tower! But getting there is the fun part. You simply follow the trail of (mostly Asian tourists), bedecked in white bathrobes as they squeeze into the elevator. Everyone is quiet. No one speaks. It is awkward. Like they’ve just had sex. Or are about to.

I so wanted to break the ice and ask ,“So-where-are-you-going-today” but I didn’t have the time to explain such a dumb question.

The main part of the pool is for hotel guests only and you can’t access it unless you have an electronic key card with you or a Colt 45. This is rigorously checked by officious-looking ladies in white polo shirts that are clearly taught never to smile which is why a Colt 45 would be so much fun.

The infinity pool is stunning and every guest in the hotel knows it, which is why you’ll never be there alone to savour the moment. It’s not a very spiritual or romantic place to be at, especially when you are surrounded by a million selfie sticks that look like snorkels. But the view is stunning and the water comfortingly warm (I’m not referring to urine). Not wishing to be left out, even I waded to the pool’s edge with my (cough) neon green selfie stick. The photo outcome was another story. I looked like a blubbery, glutenous mass of body fat bobbing in the water before being strained through muslin cloth.

I think that holiday snap will stay in the drawer forever!


MARINA BAY SANDS lower lobby ficus pots



Everything at the Marina Bay Sands is big. Giant flower pots with towering ficus trees. Long, snaking check-out lines. Three towers and three elevators to suit. A jumbo Christmas tree. A large invoice. With the double-whammy VAT added after the fact.

The shops within the Marina Bay Sands are world class with barely a fashion house or label missing from between the lines of Gucci and Cartier. This was very impressive. Immensely clean, totally modern and fully undercover. It is a shopper’s paradise and not small either.

And if gambling is your bent, then there is a casino on the lower lever. I would have gone in for a quick look, but they have a strict policy in Singapore that you must to carry your passport to enter a casino. I didn’t. So I kept on walking.

The Marina Bay Sands Hotel Review Singapore are the sole opinon of me, The Walking Critic. 


The Intercontinental Singapore was an afterthought and I’m kicking myself, because it should have been elevated to a “must stay” list.

How could I have stuffed up my planning so badly?

Well it was tagged onto the end of a stupidly hectic 16-day tour of South East Asia. And no, I did not book the hotel myself. My PA did that for me.

I’m a sucker for big things and “grand entrances”. My stint as a style reporter for the Washington Times newspaper blemished me in that way, thanks to my very noble and wonderful editor, Kevin Chaffee. Yet my arrival here seemed dismal and ignoble compared to my previous fanfare at the Raffles. My driver kind of slid across the cobbled paving to the front door, made more magnificent by the crescendo and reverberations of the courtyard confines. Everything echoed.

Yet, you know what, I arrived with gusto! A large entrance, for a person of indifferent significance and stature.

INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL welcome slate pastries

So, this is my take on the Intercontinental Singapore. And it began with the best and warmest welcome possible, which was good, because I was sad. This was my last stop on a whirlwind tour. I was checking into the hotel late and then leaving by 7am the next morning. Hardly time to know my “date”.

I was met with smiles and led to my room down the newly carpeted corridors. Everything felt and looked pristine. Soothing.

INTERCONTINENTAL SINGAPORE reception check in area

Intercontinental Singapore – Reception 

Where many Intercontinental hotels have vast sweeping reception areas, this is not the case here. Instead, you have a more refined boutique feel that is alive with colour and bright lights. The marbled floor is a network of angular and square patterns infilled with green, white, grey and burnt gold textures.

INTERCONTINENTAL SINGAPORE sitting area front reception

The small concierge lounge looks onto the front courtyard through French doors. It is a vibrant palette of colours too, dominated by tub chairs and couches with velvet purples and brown tones. A large modern painting hangs above a dark lattice console table, on which rests a pair of Chinese ceramic urn lights, with pleated silk shades. Even the drum side and coffee tables reflect the same theme that is mirrored throughout the hotel on carpet designs and carved wood work.


The Lobby Lounge

I find that whenever I’m tired and hungry, I kind of gravitate towards the nearest lounge or bar and the Intercontinental Singapore was no exception. I can barely remember my sort of dirge-like march as I floor-scraped towards where the signs told me to go, but I do remember my shock when I entered the Lobby Lounge. If you think the reception area is an understatement, then wait until you see this place. A towering atrium fit for a train station or a New York trading floor or a press room. The only thing missing was a giant railway clock and the throng of people.


The lobby lounge was more of a giant tea room, than a bar lounge, even though there was a silver bucket teeming with Perrier-Jouet. All around one, vast columns rose two stories high, flanked by onlooking wooden louvre shutters and dangling glass lanterns. Square and round tables were interspersed, affording one privacy as well as comfort.  And the seating choice varied from the modern looking dining chairs, to leather tub chairs or tall winged arm chairs. It oozed tranquillity and formality at the same time. The perfect place for quite reflection or a more intimate business meeting.



I ordered a gin and tonic (I’d overdosed on sampling Singapore Slings) and just as I was settling into my laptop to bash out some work, I noticed the unmistakable curly locks of celebrity chef Marco Pierre White sitting to my left. Close up, he looked big and prostrate. Inclining and sober.

He was locked in a slow, pensive discussion with a colleague, may be a contestant. I’d forgotten that they were filming Master Chef Singapore at the the hotel the next day. He was sipping water from a wine glass. I wanted to nudge my way into their chat, to eavesdrop or intrude, yet I have this “thing” about not annoying celebrities.

They get enough attention from fleeting onlookers. Why contribute to their public discomfort?

Yet Marco had me baffled. He seemed at ease, slouching in the corner with one arm hanging over the side of the arm chair. A complete contradiction to his infamous, firebrand personality from within the kitchen. Mind you, he had me in awe, after all, he was the youngest chef to ever be awarded three Michelin stars. And he has been rightly dubbed the first ever celebrity chef too.

I looked on him with great respect, knowing how he’d trained such notables as Mario Batali, Gordon Ramsay, Curtis Stone and Sharon Bennett.  I wanted to thank him. Not just for the food, but my memories that went with them: the Six Bells pub in my old stomping ground of Wandsworth; The Restaurant Marco Pierre White; and the Oak Room at the Le Meridien Piccadilly Hotel. I’d eaten at all of them. I remember every instance with un-aged clarity.



The Intercontinental Singapore has just been brilliantly revamped and I tip my hat to the designers for how well they incorporated the Straits Chinese, Peranakan heritage into the building. It draws much influence from the once teeming shop houses of the Bugis District though a big departure from the screaming 50s when they were in full swing.

In times of old, Bugis had a thriving nightlife, a draw card for visiting sailors and military personnel, not to mention the less savoury and nefarious folk that lurked in the shadows. It became an internationally renowned hub for a bizarre and colourful transgender sex culture. Tourists and gawkers alike flocked there to see (and sometimes dabble in) the Asian exotic, until quashed in the 1980s by more conservative elements in the Singaporean government. I still love the banter amongst Westerners, that you could easily tell who was a real female and who was not – the transvestites were drop-dead gorgeous, while the rest were real women!



The Intercontinental Singapore is a far cry from its once wild and notorious neighbourhood. Today she stands as a symbol of modernity in the heart of a go-to shopping area filled with hip stores and fine dining restaurants. Hints of the Peranakan culture are everywhere; tiles, screen print patterns, wood mouldings, Chinese ornaments, marble flooring, bed throws, paintings, carpets, cushions, furniture, lamps, ceilings. It just has a really comfortable feel of where classic Asia meets contemporary living.


Room 1407

I love it when I enter a hotel room and get this overwhelming sense to scream, “Yes!” and my Executive room was just like that. A really clever design job that managed colours and contours in a relatively constricted space to achieve a sense of grandeur. It was historically sensitive to the building, thematic to its cultural surroundings which were played out with the patterned print above the bed and the busy, latticed lines of the carpet. Both were borrowed ideas from Peranakan culture, yet counter-balanced by the softer, flatter colours of the furniture and fabrics.

The formula worked. It was serene.


INTERCONTINENTAL SINGAPORE bedroom print Peranakan design

And then you have the little touches and nuances that go a long way. The welcome plate of pastries served on a grey slate; the personalised welcome card; the Nespresso coffee machine; the courtesy bottles of water; the digital safe; the ample provision of electrical sockets, both for normal plugs and USB chargers; the built-in luggage rack. As a seasoned traveller, I felt the guest had been given priority, not housekeeping.


As with all Intercontinental hotels, the bathroom is bright and spacious with marbled floor and their signature bathroom toiletries from well-known luxury American fragrance house, Agraria.

Club Intercontinental – Singapore Style

This was my 5th Club Intercontinental experience in over two weeks, covering thousands of flying miles and four countries. And I have to say that I’ve become more than just a vagrant traveller passing by. I’ve become an expert on Intercontinental, and indeed hotel clubs.

INTERCONTINENTAL SINGAPORE second floor landing artwork

The Club Intercontinental is located on the second floor and worthy of the long walk to get there, as you cover immaculately polished wooden floors and passing alcoves of wonderfully painted modern art. Even the eagle eye’s view of the Lobby Lounge is impressive from on high, before you traverse through the doors and into the Club.

The interior is another testament to the influences of the Chinese-Malay Peranakan people, a mish-mash of areas to sit, each defined by bright colours and furnishings of a mixed colonial origin. Even the vaulted ceiling light commands attention with its unusual square panels.


It definitely scored highly for the cultural experience, friendly staff and cleanliness.  And like all the Intercontinental hotels, it was well designed and free flowing. However, I did have a niggling feeling that the buffet was more Spartan than others I’d experienced, but then I was in a rush for the airport; I literally had seconds to quaff two coffees and wolf down a pastry.  I barely had time to enjoy my breakfast with President Obama.

INTERCONTINENTAL SINGAPORE the Walking Critic has breakfast with President Obama

As a Club InterContinental guest, you get to enjoy a host of complimentary bespoke services and privileges:

  • Personalised arrival and check-in /-out at the exclusive InterContinental Club Lounge
  • Access to dedicated Club InterContinental Concierge team
  • Culinary indulgences including:
    – A la carte breakfast from 6.30am to 10.30am
    – Afternoon tea from 2.30pm to 5.00pm
    – Evening cocktails and hors d’oeuvres from 6.00pm to 8.00pm
  • A premium selection of coffee and loose-leaf tea throughout the day
  • A private library featuring Peranakan literature and reference books
  • Professional secretarial services
  • Clothes pressing for two pieces of garments upon arrival
  • 25% savings on all laundry services
  • High-speed wi-fi throughout the hotel
  • One smartphone per guestroom with 4G data and local/IDD calls to up to 10 countries during stay
  • A private InterContinental Club boardroom for up to 10 guests for one hour with state-of-art audio-visual capabilities, high-speed wi-fi and a projector
  • Guided two-hour heritage walking trail in the Bugis precinct (Saturdays only)


Parting Comments on the Intercontinental Singapore

I never got to inspect the other rooms at the Intercontinental Singapore, which was a real shame, since I left feeling like I’d only scraped the surface of an amazing experience.

I also wish I’d tried more of the dining options (Chikuyotei and Man Fu Yan) as well as sampled the Victoria Bar. But the good news is that there is always another time.


The InterContinental Singapore places you minutes from Marina Bay and the Central Business District, and it’s a short stroll from the National Museum, the Singapore Art Museum and other cultural institutions. Direct access to Bugis train station connects you to the city’s many shopping and entertainment precincts.


Intercontinental Singapore

80 Middle Road

Singapore, 188966

+65 6 3387 600


If I have learnt one thing in life, it is this: some stories are just too unbelievable to put into writing. The plots make no sense, even when they are 100% real. That’s why I don’t gamble…..much.

When I left Singapore, 12 hours earlier, Hillary Rodham Clinton was a shoe-in to retake the White House on behalf of the Clinton clan. She probably had her tape measure in one hand and an olive wreath half-hovering and vibrating in the other. She was expecting victory. I was expecting a porcelain smile. But neither were meant to be.

Her minions of fawning fans would not writhe in orgasmic adulation. There would be no Democratic tooting of horns in California. America had voted her into oblivion. Donald Trump had trounced the pundits and the population with a tumultuous victory. He had wrenched the crown away. “Stolen it,” some would say.

I was arriving to a knock-out dirge, not a laid-back party.

And here is the irony. I was returning to the USA as a seasoned ex-political reporter. This was once my beat!

I thought my arrival would be a soft, inconceivable splash rather than a dollop of slap-in-the-face sludge. I expected to be bored rigid with the election spins, but oh no, not this time.


INTERCONTINENTAL SAN FRANCISCO coffee table newspaper headlines Trump wins

The newspapers tell it all: Trump wins!

Total Shell Shock

I tried to keep my mortification to myself, but that was hard. Seemingly every American I met, from pilots to taxi drivers, all felt as if they had to apologise to me.

For the masses, the election was a total travesty; a complete lapse in national judgement. I was left to shrug my shoulders in a sympathetic “better-luck-next-time” condescension, even though this just whizzed over their heads and into the impalpable ether space.

What I said was of no consequence. It simply didn’t matter. Americans had been rocked. They didn’t care. I was just a whipping block, with no face; the object of grief and pain. A lowly foreigner.

I think I had a handkerchief dangling over my back with a big white X marked on it!

I was grateful to arrive at the Intercontinental San Francisco.


A Welcome Arrival at the Intercontinental San Francisco

I rushed the late check-in process. I was tired. The lobby was modern, unclutterd; a blur. I just wanted to unwind.

I headed for the Intercontinental Club Lounge upstairs, but, wow, what a difference to Asia. It felt like I’d been spun backwards into a time warp. Dumped into a small 1980s corporate lounge where three women were the only company.

The first woman was gushing about how great the hotel was. Trump was three-glasses removed from her mind. She was at the end of a tortuous solo night with her best friend, “Chateau Le Rouge”. I was concerned for Apple Inc the next day!

I discreetly pardoned myself to the other side of the lounge to hedge against any amorous intentions and was surprised to see a giant TV blaring out morbid details of Hillary’s destruction. It was quite loud. Two good-looking ladies sat side by side, clutching big glasses of red wine, eyes glued to the screen. They were in a funereal silence, tearful and shell-shocked.

Donald Trump had just ruined their date night by winning.

As so the saying goes, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.” I went downstairs to the ground floor to seek out life from Bar 888. Surely there had to be more soul to this place!

INTERCONTINENTAL SAN FRANCISCO Bar 888 election night too close to call

Too close to call. Trump on his way to victory.

There was nothing old or daggy here. It was edgy and inviting. A smattering of punters were likewise glued to the overhanging screen as CNN repeated again and again the gloom and bile that California hated to hear: Trump had won. The bar sort of burbled in unison, muttering silent dissent into their glasses, whilst I sort of semi-shrugged it off.

Two minutes later, I’m talking to some grey-haired man on the stool next to me. He was making more sense.

“The writing was on the wall,” he boomed in a very Jack Nicholson way. “No one wanted to believe me. They should have listened.”

I asked him if he was there to drown his sorrows, but he deflected that wild guess. “I’m here with a Christian missionary group,” he replied.

I gulped apologetically whilst he smiled and nonchalantly waved away that thought.

“I use to be a mercenary in Africa. I’ve done a lot of bad things. Then one day I woke up and found God.”



Trump announced as winner on CNN

I reached for my wrist to feel a pulse. I was now really confused. Republican versus Democrat, gay versus straight, killer versus preacher, Trump versus Clinton. And I’d only been in the US for four hours!

Where the heck was Elvis when I needed him?

(Probably drinking red wine with Jesus, I thought)

It I ever needed a sign, then here it was. Time to prick this illusion with a giant pin and head for my room.


Best hotel beds. Best view.

The Bedroom

This is where I’m a total sucker. I always fall in love with Intercontinental hotels, because their beds are amazing. Sure, I was jet-lagged, but wow, what a wonderfully soft place to snuggle up into. It was the one thing I really craved the most after flying for so many hours.

My room was small compared to my previous stay in Singapore though spotlessly clean. More Western in feel and demeanour with non-descript beige and brown neutral colours. Slightly more Spartan and muted than its Eastern contemporaries, which tend to lean towards vibrancy and opulence more, especially in the bathroom department.



A welcome card for the General Manager of the hotel.

True to Intercontinental form, a welcome card was on the table with my name inked across the front. It was propped against a complimentary bottle of Evian water and an array of light snacks, arranged in three small, white square dishes.

In the hallway, a cupboard housed a thin, flat safety deposit box with a token clutch of hangars you can’t steal. A luggage rack was folded away which made we wonder why? Surely when you enter a room, you want it there, prised open, ready for your suitcase? Or should we throw our dirty suitcases onto the fresh, new linen first and then get the rack out of the closet.

As far as in-room entertainment, I’m more of a “news junky” than a movie watcher and I do appreciate having a large, 42-inch screen on the wall because I often click on the TV, more for background noise than serious viewing. And I’ve grown fond of the looping Intercontinental in-house promotions that are always playing when you arrive.



My hotel room coffee table and chairs.

Yet the other toys are wasted on me: an iPod-ready alarm clock. Why? I barely have time to adjust to different time zone, let alone bring a sound system with me! But the Nespresso coffee machine is a total winner, as is the mini bar. I use to revile mini bars but now I appreciate time saving efficiencies like a beer at your beck and call.



Night time view from hotel room with Bloomingdales all lit up.

The View 

I didn’t realise the magnitude of my view from the Intercontinental San Francisco at night time, which sort of dissipated into darkness after being dazzled by in-your-face Bloomingdales signage . But when dawn broke, everything sprung to life.


INTERCONTINENTAL SAN FRANCISCO view from hotel room to Portero Hill

7.30am View from bedroom.

At first the view was shrouded in fog, but once the sun started to beat down, it quickly lifted and shifted towards Oakland with the thermal drift. Blue sky filled the heavens with the odd wisp of lingering cirrus clouds streaking past. I can’t put my finger on it but I was overcome with nostalgia. I was looking at the old America I once knew. Long blocks of brick buildings and warehouses. Roads that ran in grid lines. It was a feeling I can’t explain.

The Bathroom

The bathroom was nothing flash, yet in keeping with the overall feel, daubed with beige colours and neural tiles. Pristine bath sheets and hand towels were folded and hanging ready for use.

Normally I gravitate towards a hotel bathroom, as if to get some barometric reading for the quality of the room and my pending experience. Here, I left without a second glance or lasting impression. It was neither good nor bad.  I don’t even remember what amenity selection they had. I normally pay attention to the quality of shower gels and shampoos.



Lobby entrance to the Intercontinental San Francisco.

The Exterior of the Intercontinental San Francisco 

It takes daylight to fully comprehend this towering, 32-floor, turquoise glass building that houses 550 rooms.  In some parts, it looks a lot like the front radiator grill on a metallic blue Cadillac. In other parts, it emulates giant dormer windows or a pleated accordion.

It definitely stands out and you know what, it may look out of place today, but just wait. One day she will be surrounded by others that follow her path in modern design. In my opinion she breathes life into an otherwise drab and commercial neighbourhood.



Club Intercontinental lounge food sample plate.

Club Intercontinental 

You can’t compare apples and oranges when it comes to cross-matching Club Intercontinental lounges in Asia with their brethren in North America. For US standards, the Intercontinental San Francisco is pretty decent and definitely spot on for service. I barely had to flinch and someone was at my side attending to me and it does offer a degree of exclusivity, requiring room key access.   My only confusion was why it was on the 6th floor? The hotel offers stunning views from above and I fear this aspect has been wasted by sandwiching the Club Lounge so close to the ground floor. If I had my will and magic wand, I’d move it to the top floor like with other hotels of its calibre.

As far as food choices, the offerings were a minimal spread both in the evening and the morning and incomparable to my recent stays in Asia. Breakfast was a DIY affair that could have been an out-take from any hotel or motel. It lacked Intercontinental personality which is why I headed to the lobby restaurant for my invitation buffet breakfast.

For the deal-conscious, the Club Lounge serves complimentary drinks and cocktails between 7.30pm and 11.30pm. My first experience was enough of a lesson. With barely a soul there, it was, excuse the pun, “soulless”.


Bar 888. Stragglers drown their sorrows after learning about Trump’s victory.

Bar 888

Named after the hotel’s street address, Bar 888 has the best vibe in the Intercontinental San Francisco and although it is not large, it is cozy. The bar is shaped like a galley kitchen with access on three sides, all of which offer padded bar stools. Above and to the side are brightly lit shelves of spirits and a big selection of wines.

Breakfast in the Lobby

What a contrast from the Club Lounge! Down here the place was jamming with people. The normal English breakfast offerings (eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, etc) were ample and if you don’t mind me saying, I did more than one circuit around the bain maries. The quality of the selections was superb and the coffee a winner.

My Final Comment

The Intercontinental San Francisco is a corporate hotel, no question. Everything is geared for speed and efficiency, over pleasure and relaxation. And to that end, it deserves heaps of respect and positive comments. It serves its function brilliantly.

My stay was too short to fully digest what the hotel has to offer, but I did do a full inspection of all facilities. The external patios are perfect for entertainment and the conference facilities top-notch. The lap pool and gym are great for those “on the run”.

She is famed for her Michelin rated restaurant Luce, yet sadly, this too I never got to try. Next time may be.


InterContinental San Francisco

888 Howard Street

T: (888) 811-4273



Hotel Amenities & Services

  • Activity desk
  • Airport shuttle transportation ($)
  • ATM/Banking
  • Bar/Lounge ($)
  • Breakfast ($)
  • Business center ($)
  • Concierge
  • Doorman
  • Dry cleaning ($)
  • Express check-in/check-out
  • Free newspaper (lobby)
  • 24-hour front desk assistance
  • Gift shop
  • Dial-up Internet ($)
  • Wireless Internet in public areas ($)
  • Limo/Town Car service available ($)
  • Restaurant ($)
  • 24-hour room service ($)
  • Safe deposit box (front desk)
  • In-room safe
  • Full-service spa & beauty services ($)
  • Hot tub
  • Fitness center
  • Supervised child care/activities ($)
  • Indoor swimming pool
  • Television in lobby
  • Wake-up calls
  • Valet parking ($)
  • Handicap access

W San Francisco Hotel Review


You could not have more contrasts going from the antiquity of Nob Hill and the Intercontinental Mark Hopkins, to the funked-up modernity of the W Hotel San Francisco. From the staid and sedate, to the artsy and uber cool.

I have experienced my fair share of edgy and cutting edge hotels around the globe, yet this time, I didn’t know what to expect. I was about to review my sixth hotel in 8 days and the disparity between all of them was significant. Not just by brand but by continent. Yet the W Hotel was one that filled me with excitement. I wanted a change of pace. But would it deliver it?

The W Hotel San Francisco lacks the grand courtyard entrance that many hotels offer for arriving guests, which may explain why my taxi dropped me at a side door (which by the way is far better for check in). But it does “own” the chamfered corner of 3rd and Howard Street from which you have pedestrian access through two giant columns that climb two storeys high. Bold and impressive. Modern.


W HOTEL welcome lobby

W Hotel welcome lobby at Howard Street side entrance.


The down side to pavement drop offs is having no doorman to help you with luggage and I had a lot. Yet once I had negotiated this minor irritation and stepped into the lobby, it was all bells and roses…though very dark inside. And this is where I’ll pause for comment: the staff were noticeably young, brilliantly friendly, immaculately dressed, really helpful and totally put me at ease. No task was to hard for them, male or female, and every request polished off with a beaming smile and a “You’re welcome.” This was not a one-off event either. It held true for the entirety of my three-day stay at the W Hotel San Francisco.

Check-in was fluid and faultless and filled with friendly banter. I grabbed my electronic card key and headed towards the elevator.


W HOTEL elevator door and wall

W HOTEL elevator door and wall

W HOTEL elevator corridor wall purple


As I rounded the corner and approached the elevator, it suddenly dawned on me that I was in for an experience and not just a stay at the W Hotel. That every detail mattered.

In front of me was a wall of neon purple and dark slated squares. In the middle, lay another square, this time a glass vase of blazing gold flowers. Simple execution. Massive statement.


W HOTEL inside the elevator cherry tree mural


When the silver doors opened, another surprise: a glass mural of a cherry tree. A sort of modern Japanese painting or something you’d find in an advertising agency. I stepped in

My heart beat picked up pace. I felt excited. It had tapped into my childish memories of Christmas. The colours. The presents. The huge variety of wrappings and ribbons. The gift that lay within.

And then my dream world came to an abrupt halt.

When the elevator opened on my floor, I was greeted with a completely different sight of greens and blues. It felt medicinal and industrial. Airport-like. I rubbed my eyes and did a double-take.

“Huh?” I thought to myself. “What just happened?



W HOTEL Spectacular Room view

W HOTEL Spectacular King Guest Room view


I had a long, winding walk to my hotel room which was literally called a “Spectacular Room” and this gave me ample time to wonder whether I had been let down, before I swiped my way into my room. As I pushed open the door, I did my second double-take and stopped.

“Are they trying to make Ikea cool?”


W HOTEL butterfly picture

W HOTEL butterfly picture “Fly Away”!


It didn’t make sense. Was the designer targeting new couples and first-home owners? The beige wood and green glass bench top. The laser-cut floating clouds on the head board? The origami butterflies tagged as “Rare Species: Fahlai Ahwei”. Cute but not funny. Like fortune cookie messages.

But the pluses were there too. Clean, colourful, modern. Definitely spacious. You could hold a party in the bathroom it was so large! And it came with Bliss Spa amenities and their own W Signature Waffle Spa Robes with Terry Lining.


W HOTEL Spectacular King room bathroom

W HOTEL Spectacular King room bathroom – photo does not do this justice.


Their W Signature bed was large, but nothing like the comfort for the Intercontinental hotel mattresses. I appreciated the softness of the goose down duvet and the down pillows which were noticeably fluffy and airy.


W HOTEL eco friendly water sign

W HOTEL eco friendly water sign


And I loved the remote-control blinds and the window seat with their electric blue padded cushions. I often sat on them staring out the window. Even though the view was nothing spectacular and very urban, it was mesmerising.

The desk was not to my homely taste, but it was a really large work area and perfect for my abundance of computers, cameras and papers. The internet cost USD $14.95 per day but I was given free access and it was high speed with no glitches.


W HOTEL Living Room Bar

W HOTEL Living Room Bar


Every hotel has soul and at the W Hotel in San Francisco it is definitely here. Like bees to honey it pulls in the crowd from within the hotel and from the fashion and art conscious locals.

A plethora of LED lights throw splashes of colour everywhere: on the bar, under it and everywhere around it. Flashes of pink and purple. Slatted silhouettes and a theme that ties it to the rest of the ground and first floor balcony behind it. The big fireplace is also a draw card with comfy seating.
The Living Room Bar is a hot spot for the chic and social, touting eight locally renown brews and a covey of international flavours too. And if wines and cocktails are your tipple too, then you won’t be disappointed either, especially served by top-notch staff that score a massive goal for being friendly, fun and switched on. They never erred when it came to recommending food or drinks, especially to our hoard of antipodean corporate travellers.


W HOTEL Living Room Bar menu

W HOTEL Living Room Bar menu

Friday night is a bit more frenetic with really great live music and trust me, the place rocks until 1.30am.  But if you want to escape the mayhem for a second, go to the Upstairs Bar & Lounge on the first level (or 2nd level if you are American!).

W HOTEL - upstairs bar and lounge

W HOTEL – Upstairs Bar & Lounge


At the Upstairs Bar & Lounge you’ll find the same décor as the lobby area with square modular seating and a range of scatter cushions. As you ascend to bar on the semi spiral staircase, check out the hanging light. Ultra-modern and a work of art.

Open from 5.00pm to 1.30am (Thursday to Saturday), it is all about local, organic and sustainable offerings.

Secret spaces provide a more intimate spot so mingle and talk, with top shelf liquors and eight seasonal signature cocktails crafted to explore molecular gastronomy.



W HOTEL BLISS spa – what the girls love!


After a long day of work or play, sweat it out at our restyled FIT® Gym, available to registered hotel guests 24/7. Take your detox even further with a rejuvenating massage or treatment at Bliss® Spa.


W HOTEL Pet friendly hotel

W HOTEL Pet friendly hotel


I have been to Paris over 15 times and I’m use to the British love affair with their dogs, but I didn’t expect this in San Francisco. What a great idea to allow pets in too. Great forward thinking.

W Hotel has a P.A.W. program for all your four-legged furry friends, dog or cat that is, where you’ll receive a custom W Hotels pet bed, food and water bowl, floor mat, pet-in-room door sign, W Hotels pet tag, clean-up bags and much more. There are weight restrictions, up to 40kgs, but that is up to the General Manager’s whim on booking.  And they have to be leashed in public areas and kept away from food areas.


I had great expectations stepping into the W Hotel San Francisco, but I felt the ground and first floors were let down by the upper floors. A bit of an anti-climax that left me wondering if the designer ran out of money after pressing “1” on the elevator.

The lower level really is hip and worthy of after-hours drinks. The bar staff were amazingly friendly and switched on. They never erred on a recommendation of food or drinks. Yet the let-down came in my hotel room upstairs. It was very medicinal and airport-like in decor though having nothing wrong with it. It was just better suited to an Ikea-loving crowd or first-homer, than a seasoned traveller and professional. The concept was out of balance and I just didn’t get it.

I liked it, but I didn’t love it. But I did have an awesome time there.

That being said, I now know the W Hotel San Francisco is about to undergo a massive refurbishment which I’m excited about too. The marketing manager, Natalie, knows my thoughts and replied as follows:

Oh we hear you! Thank you so much for your honest opinion on our room design; we agree and are happy for our face lift happening very soon.

Thank you so much for the shout-out to our amazing bartenders. I myself go to them as well when I need that extra insider tip.

I can’t wait for you to see our new rooms! Feel free to reach out to me personally to chat further on design and our cocktail culture. Stay tuned.

It was my first W Hotel San Francisco experience and I will give W Hotels the benefit of the doubt.  I actually can’t wait to try another one.

Yet with all good things comes an ominous warning: if I don’t try the Bliss Spa, I will be killed by about 1,000 women who want to know what it’s like!

Who is Bliss? And why are they more popular than me?


W Hotel San Francisco

181 3rd Street

San Francisco, CA 94103



Telephone: +1-415-777-5300

Reservations: 888-627-8391


W Hong Kong Hotel Review


I’ve just had a glimpse at the future of hotel living (note to myself: I used the word “living”, not “accommodation”) and I like it.

What I just experienced at the W Hong Kong was a cut-and-thrust to classical, hotel thinking. It was a huge step forward for progression. A martini toast to the avant-garde.

I had come face to whisker with an experimental originality that was both kick-ass and ultra-modern, without necessarily being revolutionary or trailblazing. What really irks me is how I had been previously tepid towards W San Francisco, because “I didn’t get it”. I was like a kid being offered a huge candy jar stuffed with shiny goodies, only to have it cruelly ripped away as soon as his greedy fingers dipped into it.

W Hong Kong W sign lower level public area

Big silver “W” sign on lower public area


W Hotel is well ahead of its time. It is recognising an affluent and influential group of 30 to 49-year olds by becoming a honey pot for these busy, discerning and impeccably well-dressed bees. From my perspective, as a travel professional and expert reviewer, the buzz is getting louder on the street. I’m not embarrassed to admit this, but I’m being lured by the sound, the noise. I’m like Ulysses being strapped to the mast, allowing himself to listen to the dulcet tones of the W Sirens, tethered but safe!

As a travel insider, a professional reviewer and writer I have learnt not to wear blinkers and be myopic. Something tells me that W Hotels is going somewhere and I want to be a part of that Odyssey. But that wasn’t always the case.

I had been thrown a damp-squid at the W San Francisco. I was miffed, stumped, pained by a woeful sense of “I-don’t-get-it”. A false sense of security that left me feeling hoodwinked by the pizazz of the lobby lights, until I stepped onto my upper floor. There I found myself desperately lost in what I can only describe as the “bedroom department” of Ikea. Chalk and cheese. Apples and oranges. Style and WTF!

The fact is that no one built Rome in a day, not even W Hotels. I could have fobbed off the mediocrity of one experience and stamped that view across the whole brand, but I knew better. I confronted my disappointment and without flinching, booked myself into W Hong Kong. I needed to experience more.


W HONG KONG view of Victoria Harbour from lower level


From the outside, the W Hong Kong is an immensity of modernity placed in the most up-and-coming neighbourhood of West Kowloon. It is a huge departure from those ghastly, characterless, self-same concrete towers that blot and blight the rest of Hong Kong.

This hotel is different. It is vibrant. A beacon. A stand-alone work of art. It has spirit and energy. It exudes warmth.

For me it tells a dreamy story throughout all its 393 rooms and living areas, a theme that is pervasive and ubiquitous, whether you are resting or dining or drinking.



W Hong Kong hotel lobby area


Smiles work. Name recognition works. Lobbies are the front line of any hotel. They are the name beneath the banner. The face of the brand. The first line of defence, never the first line of offence.

And these guys at the W Hong Kong are good. Really good.


W HONG KONG check in desk plasma screen


Behind the check-in counter is this massive screen of flashing “what-evers”. It is mesmerizingly huge and colourful and quite a contrast to the slick, black uniforms of these overly attractive young men and women that man the front trenches.

(I’m sure “good looking” is a concept W stole from Virgin! I’m biased in Branson’s favour: I notice good-looking staff!).

I’m asked, “Do you recognise it?” one of the drop-dead gorgeous girls asks. I transfix my eyes on these moving colourful, squid-like shapes behind her head.

“I don’t know,” I replied. “But it reminds me of an LSD trip.”

“Oh no….” she giggles. “Try again.”

I looked carefully.

“Duh! Disney?”

“Yes, exactly.”

I felt as if she wanted to clap. But nothing happened.

I didn’t have the heart to tell her that it reminded me of The Wonderful World of Disney on LSD. At university, every Saturday night, we use to love the fireworks bursting above the Disney castle as Tinkerbell turbo charged and twerked in her tutu. We discovered it looked so much better when stoned.

I’m joking.




At all the W Hotels that I’ve visited, the elevator is not just a mode of convenience but a quirky feature that is deliberately OTT (over the top) with in-your-face décor. I find that captivating, sexy, enticing and definitely memorable.

At the W Hong Kong, the elevator is manned by a dapper, smiling attendant. He must love watching people go, “Wow!” as the doors slide open.

The lift floor is like a giant iPad emblazoned with flashing, garish colours that literally welcome you “GOOD AFTERNOON”. I wasn’t sure where to stand in case I cracked the glass (my brain was never programmed to stand on computer screens!). I clung to the side of the elevator as we ascended, sucking up the view of Kowloon Bay through the amazing floor to ceiling windows. I still found my plasma floor disconcerting especially as it emanated a huge amount of heat. “Was the floor built by Samsung?” I found myself asking.

As the elevator slowed and stopped on the 27th floor, I secretly held my breath. “Please don’t be medicinal and industrial,” I implored and prayed, hankering back to my previous stay in San Francisco. I barely had time to say amen before the doors opened to reveal these funky book shelves lined with faux white books and the odd sea shell or statement piece.



The hidden elevator call button!

My wish had come true. There were no hospital greens, but a plethora of soft greys and neutral colours, warmed by glowing overhead sconce lights. Even the ceiling bulkhead light was patterned with etched images of hats. The flecked texture of the carpet was perfectly balanced by the ragged texture of the walls.

“Clever,” I thought to myself. “Very clever.”


W HONG KONG corridor lighting and colours

Follow the floor lighting to your room


The corridor to my room was dark and moody. There was no overhead or wall lights, simply floor level strip lighting that showed the way.

Outside my door was a simple, thin shelf holding what looked like a large, bound book. It was opened to an illusionary page that showed a hand holding a feathered quill. It had drawn the number 2703. It looked like an old print except, it was only my room number sign. And below it was a small raised strip that clearly repeated everything in Braille.

W HONG KONG room number book

The “faux books” that W Hong Kong have your room number on it.


The whole “book” doubled up as a “Do Not Disturb” sign, once the button was depressed in the room. A red light would glow warning querulous room service members to keep on walking. I liked that. I hate using doorknobs and door hangars for “Do Not Disturb” signs, or even laundry bags. They always fall off!


W HOTEL Spectacular Room king bed

Gorgeous King size bed in my Spectacular Room. Loved the window view and remote control blinds.


From moody to magnificent. Kick out the grey and welcome the splashes of colour. This is a medley of energy and excitement. The craziness of insipid swirls on the wall and a throw pillow are brilliantly counterpointed with big bursts of lime green from the bed spread and the pale monotone of the modular chaise longue.  At 431 square feet, this is no giant suite, but a lot of thought and design has gone into this space.

You don’t have fat, annoying bedside tables; you have delicate places for your water and phone.

You don’t have big table lamps; you have bendy LED lights that you barely notice.

Someone understands design here: balance; economy of space; the equilibrium of contrasting textures, patterns and colours.

Everything made sense. It works.

I loved the King Bed – I went to nirvana when I slept.  The 400-thread-count linen was my elixir!

But the room was seriously smaller than I like. Word to the wise: upgrade.


W HONG KONG bathroom bath robes and towels

Hanging bathrobe before you enter shower.


I normally gravitate to the bathroom in most hotels as this is where you spend most of your waking hours when on the road, but I didn’t here.

W Hong Kong bathroom basin and mirror lighting

Swirl artwork etched into the mirror with back lighting.

In contrast to the main bedroom, it had dark grey, granite-like colours, on the floor and walls. This was offset by the whites of the basin, bath, toilet and towels, all of which were amplified by white light that emanated from a modern pattern within the mirror.

The space would be too tight for a family especially if they have multiple wash bags to put somewhere. But I liked the clean lines and door-less feel, the rainforest shower and separate bathtub. If you wanted privacy, you slid a concealed door panel across the corridor to segregate the bed from bath areas. Or you could opt for open-planned living. Your choice.


W HONG KONG Bliss Spa products in bathroom


I loved the range of Bliss shampoos and gels, lotions and potions (another word to the wise, women know this too, so guys “buy some and take home to the missus!”).

In reality, Bliss Spa and W Hotel are a marriage made in heaven with stand-out packaging that is both edgy and cool. They are pushing the boundaries of tongue-in-cheek humour with subliminal slogans like Fresh Mouth….Bare All….So Vain….Less Rough More Buff. You almost feel like you’re at a marketing stall, not in a hotel bathroom. Yet the end result works. The products are not gimmicks. They are high quality.



Amazing views over the bay


KITCHEN is the super stylish bistro and all-day dining venue that draws its eclectic inspiration from the unlikely pages of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. It is a brilliant concept, that plays to the Hong Kong’s English heritage and the quirky, whimsical, fantasy world that Lewis Caroll created 150 years ago. From the moment that she fell down the rabbit hole, Alice was bent on consumption, a frequent desire for food and knowledge that she coined as her “Curious Appetites”.

Today, all that literary magic is embodied in KITCHEN, allowing its international chefs to challenge their art form with inventive, fanciful menus and treats. They have creative license to push edible boundaries in a setting that is a modern spin on the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party.

For me, breakfast was my bent. I distinctly remember how good the coffee was before plunging into the huge buffet offerings. I relished the mix of Asian and English food. Sweet and sour pork, versus eggs benedict. Pastries that were pure decadence coated in sugar (though I did have a few that were gluten free!). Ice troughs filled with bottles of freshly squeezed juice.


View of the Bay from the KITCHEN restaurant. Amazing!

Enjoy the panoramic views over Kowloon Bay, the flotilla of floating barge cranes, ferries and tankers.  It is an awesome sight, as industrial as it is.




If you want some truly authentic Cantonese cuisine and outstanding dim sum, then look no further than Sing Yin where Chef Johnny Chan works his magic. But if you’re expecting the stereotypical grandeur or most Cantonese restaurants, you’re in for a big surprise.

The 120-seat Sing Yin is on the ground floor of W Hong Kong and a nod to contemporary thinking, thanks to international architect and interior designer, Steve Leung. The moment you approach the entrance you are absorbed by this towering façade dominated by high ceilings and dangling Chinese artefacts. Huge screens beckon you to enjoy the recreation of Hong Kong’s bustling streetscape.



W HOTEL Sing Yin Restaurant entrance cityscape

Amazing cityscape effect as you walk up to the Sing Yin restaurant entrance


W Hong Kong Sing Yin restaurant private dining room

Private dining area with little hanging bird cages


The wow-factor continues on your journey inside. Even the bar is reminiscent of the old stores of the 60s and 70s, modelled on a traditional Chinese tea house. A hand-sketched cityscape on the ceiling above.


W Hong Kong public area entrance lower level

W Hong Kong public area entrance in front of Sing Yin restaurant

Approaching the main dining area is another experience, semi-private rooms that emulate the old boutiques and barber shops, the décor of local groceries.  And if you make your way to the very end of the restaurant, you’ll find a cluster of intermittent LCD screens that are intertwined with real and virtual marine life.



With bulging eyes and dripping tongue, I leapt at the chance to sample Chef Chan’s signature set menu and I was not disappointed. My highlights were the barbecued Spanish iberico pork, roasted pork belly with crispy crust and accompanying chilled cucumber with black vinegar. This was followed by pan-fried crab claw stuffed with minced shrimp and a sautéed king prawn with crab meat and sea urchin. Total seafood perfection! And not to be out done was the sautéed Australian wagyu beef (“marble score 8”) with black pepper sauce. And the steam fried rice with whole abalone wrapped in lotus leaf.



W HOTEL Wet bar night time pink lights


I have this thing about roof top bars having recently been to Bangkok, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. I thought I’d seen it all from dizzy heights, but the Wet Deck has just leapt into pole position on the vertigo chart. From 76 floors up, it commands an awesome vantage point with sweeping views of Victoria Harbour.


W Hong Kong Wet Deck mozaic wall artwork

Amazing fantasy mosaic artwork on the wall


W HONG KONG Wet Deck pool area people swimming

Time for a dip


A decent lap pool runs parallel to the glass pool fencing from where you can watch the world around you. An iconic mosaic wall looms over the entrance depicting an explosion of fantasy, though I’m not sure fluttering butterflies and a conch shell is my vision of imagination, but it is really impressive.


W HONG KONG Wet Deck view as you step onto roof

This is the view you see as you step through onto the roof deck – 76 floors up!


I had an unplanned chat with the F&B Director who gave me a private talk on every building and view. How much you pay for apartments, which one was the in-place to rent, and so forth.

I didn’t get to enjoy the “Wet is On Fire” barbeque, but my eagle eye spotted the Grilled half Boston Lobster and Grilled Canadian Sea Scallop. Next time, I hope!

Venue:             76/F, Wet Deck
Time:               Monday – Friday, 6:00PM – 9:00PM
Price:               HK$398 Per Adult / HK$199 Per Child
Enquiries:        3717 2299 /

*All prices are subject to 10% service charge
*Subject to weather conditions and is not applicable to public holidays


W HONG KONG Woobar reviews

Fun with a capital “W”


The WOOBAR is definitely not bland as far as the décor goes and the crowd is much the same there too. The interior follows the same vein of “Mad-Hatterness” as the Kitchen, whimsical and crazy with hanging paraphernalia and butterflies above the bar.


W HONG KONG Woobar healthy food buffet lunch

Buffet lunch at the Woobar. Get ready for the evening!



Healthy food! Buffet salad selections at the WOOBAR


During the day it a quiet and serene; more suit and tie than fashion parade. A healthy buffet is offered out with cold cuts and salads for lunch. Afternoon tea offers other healthy options as well. But hold your horses, as the sun dips and the tempo rises, the WOOBAR takes on a whole new metamorphosis with live music and happy hour cocktails. Taking a leaf from W Hong Kong’s own wording, “ Join the party with pulsating beats from the city’s top DJs, our chic signature W Hong Kong cocktails and one of the best happy hours in town. Detox, Retox. Repeat. The party never stops.”

My kind of place!


W Hong Kong WOOBARD evening set up

Get ready for a the fun at the WOOBAR in the evening

  • Cuisine:                   Light Fare
  • Setting:                   Chic and Fun
  • Dress Code:             Bold and Witty
  • Smoking Permitted: No
  • Hours: 10:00 AM – 1:00 AM

For reservations or enquiries:



I have eaten a major chunk of humble apple pie visiting W Hong Kong and I owe a big thanks to Natalia Silva (Marketing Manager, W San Francisco) and Fiona Cheng (PR & Marketing Coordinator, W Hong Kong) for opening my eyes to a brand that I feel has got it right. It is appealing, sexy, funny, on the cutting edge and distinctively young, fresh and worth its salt. It oozes love and pretends to be nothing more than what it delivers which is funked-up excellence.

I did get to see the other room categories and I have nothing but good thoughts for what is a well-delivered, well-executed concept from Penthouse top, to restaurant bottom.

I will say this, W Hong Kong is not just for the uber, super cool. I was actually gob-smacked by how many families were there, kids and all. And yes, the yummy-mummies dominated, bedecked in the latest fashion accoutrements, which was exactly what W Hotels wants and I expected to find.

If I had one gripe it was this: I was not there long enough to truly enjoy W Hong Kong. And if I could walk away with one star, it is this: W Hotel has become my number one hotel brand to follow. It is the future of hotel living.

(Did I mention “Living” before?).

Note: I was not paid to write this review by W Hotel, and nor was I given a free stay or hotel room. These words are my words and my opinions. If you don’t like them, tough!


W HONG KONG Hotel room choices

W HONG KONG Hotel room choices

W HONG KONG products on sale

W HONG KONG products on sale

Soori Bali Hotel Review

SOORI BALI Villa view ocean

I have just been left shell-shocked by my stay at the Soori Bali It has literally blown my mind away.

It has taken me months to digest the gravity of my visit; to actually find the time and breath to etch out my thoughts into carefully construed words.

What I will say is this: when I left the Soori Bali, I carried with me an a sense of enlightenment. I felt uplifted. Emotionally purified and purged.

If it were truly possible, I had just been blessed with more love than in almost any stay….anywhere.

The travel gods had smiled on me. I had been anointed. I had become a better person.


Until this very moment, I had shied away from reviewing the Soori Bali. I didn’t feel as if I was ready to give it every experiential inflection, a moment of justice in the open pulpit of review. In my expert world, details matter. You have to get them right. You don’t need to wear lingerie and have melt-downs over vanity lines getting more like troughs. You just call a spade a spade based on reality, not “fluffdom”.

My dilemma was poignant: how can you possibly assemble and morph so many thoughts into such a short piece?

Well this is how.


From the party pizazz and shining lights of Seminyak, to the monkey forests of Ubud, I had experienced much over the last few days. As I descended from the volcanic mountains towards Tanalot and through the rice paddy fields surrounding the Soori Bali, I had time to reflect on this intense journey. I had just visited nine hotels, staying in three, before being disgorged at the plinth of the cobbled Soori reception area.

I had gone through an emotional roller coaster with every ride. Each hotel property a challenge to my own sense of purpose, as both a writer and travel expert.

I rarely “just stay” in a hotel when I review it. I venture far and wide, to immerse myself in the food, the culture, the people. This is often a spiritual journey too, one that allows me to give context to a hotel and “frame” it in its local environment. To complete the picture, one might say.

As I whizzed through local villages to the Soori Bali, I was gripped by this uneasy feeling of regret. What on earth had I done? Where was I going?

I felt like I was heading to nowhere.

Even my seasoned and brilliant driver, Putu, was reverting to peevish quips and grouchy calls, as we crabbed through winding streets that looked all the same with ruffled, giant banners to me. Yet unruffled and diligent as always, he delivered me to the property without even a whinge or gripe.

A solitary security guard smiled a greeting at us.  After a quick clip-board check, we were ushered forward to cross this rickety wooden bridge that clattered and clacked loudly. I felt normal and ever-present.

Either side of the arch, stood these giant, carved, black stone columns entwined with gold and white chequered fabric. A customary, family temple was set to the side, adorned with a gold and white umbrella. A slightly taller golden flag fluttered in the soft breeze. And then we shook down the long driveway some 500 metres long, before winding up at the circular cobbled courtyard and reception area.

I was beginning to smart more. Why, oh why, had I booked a place that was so far away and remote? I had gone from buzz and energy of Seminyak, to the jungle hillsides of Ubud and now this: total removal and total solitude.

I must have looked a somewhat anxious and squalid wreck, as I exited the car.  I still had no idea where I was, or what I was in for. I never research a place before I go there because I don’t want my thoughts to be tainted or affected by the babble of mediocre spew that others contrive.

SOORI BALI front of hotel cobbled stones


Anyone that has been to Bali knows this sensation well. When you exit from an air-conditioned car, there are mini nanoseconds before you suddenly feel the pin pricks of sweat trickle down your neck. An envelope of humidity throttles you with slow malaise, until you reach the point of drenched, no return . I really did feel grimy and mucky and this didn’t help. But the mark of excellence is when hotel staff sense your distress and rise to the occasion and need. In this instance it was a cold towel, with the soothing scent of lemon grass, my arch angel for the moment.

The check-in process was effortless. I never left my seat. I had all the time in the world to absorb my new surroundings, unrushed and at peace. The staff brought everything to me, including a complimentary drink that bristled with soothing relief.


Soori Bali front entrance to reception lobby

Soori Bali front entrance to reception lobby

The Soori Bali reception area is a huge al fresco space. It is a world of contrast from the brilliant light outside, to the darker, muted wooden tones of shelter inside. Yet it is also an area of balance. The striking horizontal lines of the slatted wooden screens are counterpointed by vertical poles and low planted gardens. It is a testament to nature and life, with water ever present. The reflecting pool open to the elements and heaven above with one’s eyes being drawn to the frangipani trees on the central island. There is a careful respect between the gentle, living green tones of nature and the hardness of stone and concrete. You barely notice the subliminal affect it has on you. The rolling and soft crashing sounds of the ocean afar adding mystery to the mood, whilst local musicians beckon you with a haunting and spiritual piping Rindik Bamboo Music.

The reception area is a feature in itself and almost removed from the rest of the Soori Bali resort. It towers above the villas and concedes little to their whereabouts or the immensity of the property. It betrayed little of the experience I was about to enjoy, or the world I would fall in love with.

SOORI BALI villa 203

My doorway to heaven


SOORI BALI walkway to ocean villas

A tropical walkway to my own villa


As I was led down from the reception area, and steep stairs to the left, it began to dawn on me just how vast and truly private the Soori Bali really was. I felt like I was in my own kingdom. Palm trees and walls and bamboo clusters towered above me. I followed the stone paving as it weaved and snaked between low-lying vegetation and sporadic, carefully planted frangipani trees. Someone very clever had thought of every nuance of planting and vegetation.

Soon, I stood before the entrance to my own Ocean Pool Villa marked 203. It was a simple yet huge and open, dark wooden archway. But this was still not the end of my journey. It was a beckoning, a beginning, a welcome gateway to a private complex. I had yet to climb the remaining steps and open the giant doors into my new world.


SOORI BALI villa 203 pool and ocean view

Your own private paradise


Nothing can prepare you for the moment when you part open the doors and step into what I can only describe, as the most gorgeous ocean view garden courtyard. It is like watching the grand reveal on a TV decorating show, when the judges see a finished room for the first time.


SOORI BALI villa view to bedroom with pool

Step out from your living area into your own private pool through the slide doors


SOORI Bali view from villa across the manicured lawns

View from my pool towards the bar, restaurants and temple on the rocks


Your eyes are literally drawn to the crystal blue infinity pool and then the breaking waves beyond. You just want to yell out, “Mine…all mine!” But you can’t, without causing childish alarm, because the neighbours and concerned staff would probably dagger you with querulous looks.

“No, I’m not on drugs,” you want to say and you grin within. “I’m just immensely happy!”

The funny thing is that you haven’t even stepped into your room yet.


SOORI BALI bedroom king bed

Giant king bed and oh-so-comfortable!


SOORI BALI bedroom lounge area

Like a luxury apartment, bed and lounge


Wait until you actually open the doors to your living space and are greeted by this amazing, modern, four poster bed. Like the garden, the ocean view is never compromised. You can lie back on the bed and from the pillows, gaze across your feet towards the pool, through the slide doors and beyond.

To your left and right is a small living area. A giant plasma screen is concealed within the wall. A couch to the other side. If the moment grabs you, yes, you can even step off the end of the bed, through the opening and into the pool. I did. Often!

The sheer volume of space is captivating. I have never been in such a stunning environment where light and air swirls around you in such a comforting manner. Even the textures and smooth surfaces blend and fuse with each other despite being so divergent in colour. Dark, almost black woods and furnishings are harmonious with neutral floor tiles and brighter wall colours and linens. Almost nothing seems to dominate or distract you from the overall feel of the room or design. It is truly a living space that works as a whole and not governed by an individual statement.


SOORI BALI bathroom

His and Her basins plus a sunken bath


SOORI BALI the romantic sunken bath

The ultimate romantic bath and its huge!


SOORI BALI bath tub at night

The best evening bath ever!


Luxury is not an exaggeration when you stay at the Soori Bali. I can’t remember the last time I had a choice of a sunken bath tub in my bedroom, or another interior shower, as well as my favourite, the outdoor shower. There is something infinitely sexy about washing outside where no wandering eyes can find you.

The sunken bathtub is massive. I lit the candle one night and just laid back listening to the diminutive and barely audible music and the crushing sound of waves outside. I was lost in the space and at peace within.

What I truly loved about my Ocean Pool Villa was the use of local colours and materials. They dictated the mood and ambiance of my space, where walls were clad in paras kelating, a cool grey sandstone taken from the banks of a local river. Yet outside, the black-sand beach is prevalent, until you realise how this too has been infused into the resort interiors using the local volcanic stone called batu candi.

The interior bathroom offers “his” and “her” washbasins with giant mirrors that straddle the walkway to the outside shower. There is a huge amount of storage and hanging space, plus a digital safe for keeping valuables. This is the ultimate bathroom design.

Rarely do I like to be in a bathroom for more than functional purposes, but here at the Soori Bali, it became a part of my experience and stay, for which my reward was total enjoyment.


Like most hotels in Bali, you have a well-stocked mini bar with the usual culprits of Bintang beer and Heineken, white wine and champagne, Coke and Sprite. You even have the choice of still and sparking water.


SOORI BALI mini bar

Mini bar stocked with the usual culprits


SOORI BALI coffee bar

Got to love Nespresso anywhere in the world!


A small wicker box hosts an array of Pringles, nuts and local snacks. And you even have a kettle with a choice of tea, plus a Nespresso machine for coffee.  Soori also provides its own complimentary drinking water in the bathroom for brushing teeth, as well as for making coffee and tea.



I love being in that situation when you don’t know what to do. You’ve arrived in a completely alien environment, with absolutely no “sense of place”. You have no idea where the heck you are, what is north of south, and certainly no concept of how to behave. You are like a mole, broaching the tufts and soil for his first peek and sniff.

I meandered from my villa early, around 5.30pm. I was exploring.

My sexy date was hungry – I jest: that was me. I was completely alone. And it was then that the immensity of the Soori started to set in.


SOORI BALI view to Ombak and ocean

View towards the bar and restaurant

Soori is vast. Huge. Everything is so clever and perfect. I felt like a Roman general pacing amidst a garden, shell-shocked yet ever-present. A conqueror that was sick and tired of the outside world. A man that was disposed to look at notes of beauty, not calamity. A being, a real person that needed a shower, a wash, a massage; someone, anyone that could uplift.

I remember a fleeting look at the library to my right and a feeling of awe and despondency. I was engaged by the light. I even waked into the room and touched the books with soft finger tips, like I was reading Braille.

I needed to move on. I was only staying for two nights. There was no real time to enjoy or revel.

My greatest surprise by far, after nine days on the road and so many experiences, was the food. I was absolutely not expecting such mouth-watering brilliance. Every meal was a voyage of virginal discovery that left me stunned and silent.


SOORI BALI Cotta Restaurant dessert

Dessert or “art” at the Cotta Restaurant


SOORI BALI Cotta restaurant panko prawns

Crumbed prawns


SOORI BALI Cotta Restaurant best meal yet!


When art meets food and it tastes great, you know you have reached heaven’s door. I just happened to find the key and it was at Soori Bali .

I make no pretences that I have cooked professionally for over 250,000 people in the last 15 years. I have flipped that many burgers! Yet despite my self-deprecation, I do know a thing or two about food.

I hate charts and “Top 10” erroneous bollocks that most people fawn over but let me tell you this quickly.


SOORI BALI Cotta Restaurant

COTTA restaurant and my new friends hiding in the corner after I drone-bombed them in the morning!


SOORI BALI Moroccan eggs breakfast

Best Moroccan egg breakfast…I had to!


SOORI BALI coffee and thinking time

Coffee, ocean, morning….my three best things to start the day.


SOORI BALi black sands beach at dawn

A walk down the black sand beach at dawn


In my opinion, Soori Bali is in the top two best hotels for food in Bali. I’m sitting on the fence here on purpose, because I have only been to Soori once and normally I visit a venue two or three times before making such sweeping statements.

Cotta is dark and moody and ethereal, a fusion of natural textures like wood and stone, offset by polished concrete and minimalist decoration. Four-top tables are draped with fresh white linen, adding brightness. Two polished wooden banquet tables lend colour and warmth to the setting. It is a comforting refuge from whence to ogle at the ocean beyond or the manicured lawns to the side. It is both romantic and inspiring.


SOORI BALI Ombak view from terrace to ocean

Total peace and bliss as one looks over the reflecting pool and fountain to the ocean


SOORI BALI beside the Ombak

Total bliss and pleasure.


SOORI BALI ocean view al fresco style near Ombak


Omabak is like an extension of Cotta, though concealed more to the right and around the corner. It has the modern bar vibe, the al-fresco feel, a closeness to the ocean and nature. Slated wood is ever-present, behind the bar with light showing through. Above is the more permanent roofing feature providing shelter when needed from the elements. Even the padded dining chairs are back with horizontal wooden slats.

Ombak was a wonderful place to be at sunset, especially when the cave bats make their escape in one nocturnal exodus. Hanging lanterns and table candles add to the softness of the ambience.


Ombak Bar and Restaurant at the Sorri Bali


SOORI BALI Ombak view to hotel

Such a surreal and peaceful view


SOORI BALI side view to villas from Ombak

Looking towards Tanalot from the Ombak Bar area


SOORI BALI Ombak bar sunset drinks

Sunset drinks at the Ombak Bar, Soori Bali

I can only describe all my meals at Ombak and Cotta as faultless, verging on perfection. I will leave you the readers to discover this for yourselves another day, rather than have me micro-analyse every nuance and leaf on my plate. Suffice it to say, I am still in awe of my experience there.


In my more informative student years, I spent three of my five years studying art history and architecture in one of the most famous schools in the world: Eton College. And let me tell you this: the architect behind Soori is brilliant.

What he has created is a never-ending narrative that assumes nothing, but blends almost everything into one amazing Balinese adventure. I may not be equal to his genius or vision, but I can appreciate his story in almost every minute detail.  I noticed and absorbed every fleck of water on the plants, every rough-edged cobble stone, ever weave and turn and pollen grain. I understood the mission without needing a mud-map to guide me.

I have never had a working magic wand or a “big canvas” to work with. But I do revere Soori as this visionary, giant, living canvas that I have always wanted to paint on. The balance of air and light and water is so profound and evocative that I am really forced to compare Monet’s lily pond with Soori Bali. It is completely and utterly in a stand-out league of its own.

After reviewing 40 or so hotels in Bali over the last year, I cannot even contemplate giving Soori Bali anything less than a top award. I approached it with trepidation and dread, after so many reviews and experiences at other properties and now I am desperate to return. This has become, in my opinion, the bucket list hotel to visit in Bali. It is the ultimate escape.

For Soori Bali booking and great deals click here: Soori Bali reservations.

Or call 1300 799 758 to learn more.


Argh, the Raffles Hotel, the Grand Dame of Singapore. How much I miss you already. You are everything I dreamt you’d be, only better.

The Raffles Hotel was the one property that I most wanted to review on my tour of Singapore and I had butterflies in my stomach from the anticipation. It left me edgy and uneasy. A meld of fear, apprehension, excitement, adrenalin.

Would it live up to its reputation? Would it let me down?

I relate to history. I was exposed to it from an early age, born into an aristocratic line that owns most of England and Scotland, and probably killed much in between. It left me with a cluster of notable friends that would make for really fun dinner talk: actors, prime ministers, foreign secretaries, royalty, writers; and less interesting “common” folk…like me.

When your own family reads like a Who’s Who of peerages and gluttony, history comes with the territory. I was unwittingly the perfect candidate for the Raffles Hotel.

RAFFLES HOTEL Singapore doorman and the walking critic


When my taxi crunched to a halt on the circular gravelled driveway, a tall, smiling doorman, sporting regimental Sikh livery, stepped out from under the shaded portico to open my door and welcome me. I realised then that my quest for knowledge had begun. How was he able to wear a full-length coat and turban and not suffer from the oppressive humidity?  I’d just left the comfort of an air-conditioned cab and was dripping wet!

The battle of doubts versus wants had ended. This was real. I was about to enter the most iconic hotel in Singapore. To follow in the in footsteps of so many great names. I was bubbling with excitement. I couldn’t wait to relive what they had seen and done. To hear the voices of the past.

When I stepped out of the cab, I did so with new purpose, strutting up the red carpet, past the doorman’s dais, and thorough one of the French doors into the vastness of the white marbled lobby. My heart quickened and my pace slowed. The immensity of the moment gripped me. And so did the space. I was like a bewildered child caught by the twinkle of Christmas lights.


Raffles Hotel Singapore Writers Bar

My quest for the old-world had begun in earnest. I had arrived. I was no longer a voyeur. I had become part of the Raffles story.

The staff were amazing and faultless as they escorted me to the check-in desk on the right. I barely remember doing more than scratching my signature on the guest registration form before being ushered to an arm chair beside one of the giant white Corinthian columns. I put my hand luggage down and before I could blink, there was a silver tray sporting a complimentary Singapore Sling in a tall glass with a pink straw poking out of it, and a carefully balanced cherry and slice of pineapple on the lip.


Raffles Hotel Singapore sign for Singapore Sling


I got up and walked a few metres to the adjoining Writers Bar musing over my cocktail and surrounding space. I was glowing with invented thoughts. Did Somerset Maugham sit here? Noel Coward there? I wanted to break open my pad and pen, just to say I’d been in the bar and scribed something important too.

The Singapore Sling is one of my litmus cocktails that I often use to gauge the proficiency of bartenders worldwide. A gin and tonic is another one. And I’m not saying this lightly, but I truly think that was the best Singapore Sling I have ever had.

By being at the Raffles, I had traced the Singapore Sling back to its roots,. It was here in 1915, at the Long Bar on the first floor, that a very clever bartender called Ngiam Tong Boon would create his infamous masterpiece and thus his ascension towards fame. Nowadays, people flock from all over the world just to have a Singapore Sling (and get poor in the process), a testament to both his wizardry and its enduring taste.

I tried cocktails at many other venues, but I can say with absolute authority that the Raffles Hotel is the King of Sling.

They are truly unrivalled and unmatched.

For me, there is another side to appreciating this wonderful cocktail, both fascinating and enshrined in the history of the Raffles. What Ngiam Tong Boon did was very daring for his time and in total breach of convention.

The Long Bar was a popular watering hole for colonial Singaporeans, almost a social institution, and it was not uncommon to see the gents tipping away on their glasses of gin or whisky. However, this was in stark contrast to the women. Prevailing etiquette dictated that they should not drink in public…in case, I presume, they got tipsy or worse still. It was very unladylike to see a woman swaggering or wobbling in public, but quite okay for men to do so. Alcohol was very much the preserve of male habit in those days. Ladies were relegated to sip on juice or water or tea.

In a genius moment of early Singaporean marketing prowess, Ngiam clicked that he could slip a dash of gin and cherry brandy into his pink “fruit cocktail” and the men (and public) would be none the wiser.

And thus was born the Singapore Sling and his legend. He may well have become the most sought after man in the country.



The Long Bar is the public and much-hyped part of the Raffles Hotel. It is flaunted and well-marketed. I last visited it in 2004 when you could smash a few peanuts and drop them on the floor with wanton abandon. I seem to remember that the beer was well chilled and on the steeper side of expensive. Of course, it didn’t shock me to discover that nothing has changed since my last visit. Not at the Raffles, nor the Long Bar, nor with alcohol prices throughout Singapore.



My gorgeous personal butler, bedecked in pressed beige uniform, escorted me through the grey cast iron gate that delineated the separation between the public and the private guest quarters. To my right lay a perfectly manicured square lawn that had me thinking, “croquet and cocktail” parties. As we walked around the edge to my room, I had this overwhelming sense that I had stepped back in time. Voices and faces from the past were reaching out to me in flashes. But there was no one there. Just me.

Raffles Hotel Singapore ground floor suite room 106

ROOM 106

The Raffles Hotel is grand and my room was no exception. It felt like a furnished apartment with high ceilings that you lived in, not a room that you stayed in. You stepped through the door into a small ante-room. To the right was a round breakfast table with an orchid and welcome fruit bowl on it. There was enough space for two chairs and a standard lamp. Botanical prints hung above it. A Nespresso machine was on the counter opposite. To the left was a small couch. I didn’t know what to try first.

Giant tied-back curtains partitioned the ante-room from the huge bedroom with its two-post bed, chaise long, suit stand, writers table and giant armoire wardrobe. And beyond there was the timeless green marbled bathroom with two rooms; one with basin and Raffles amenities; the other with toilet, shower, giant bath tub and ceramic elephant pot holders. I felt as if I could live in this room alone!


RAFFLES bathroom amenities

Raffles Hotel Singapore bathroom with green marble

You truly got the impression that time has stood still. The colonial furnishings and nuances unblemished. Egyptian cotton sheets. Tapestry bed seat. Even the wicker table under the colonnade outside my bedroom door was in keeping with the “old world” charm. I would have my coffee there each morning. So peaceful. Mind you, a word to the wise, the air conditioning in your room will be so cool that when you step out in the warm humidity, everything fogs up – glasses, cameras and all. Enjoy those moments of being electronic free, as you can’t fight the condensation until all temperatures equalise.

I loved my room and really, for a single traveller, it was overkill. The king-sized bed was enormous, soft and all mine! I would never trade it for anything else.

Raffles Bar and Billiard Room Sunday brunch


Sunday brunch at the Bar and Billiard Room should be on everyone’s bucket list of things to do in Singapore. For me, this was unquestionably “the” highlight of my stay at the Raffles Hotel. The sheer scale and size of the offerings would rival almost any decadent banquet and although I have seen bigger, I had certainly not eaten better.

Almost every taste was catered for, even with bite-sized morsels in shot glasses (my favourite being the Seared Tuna and Sweet Soya Sauce Gazpacho), exquisitely laid-out salads (loved the asparagus and crab meat), wooden chopping boards with cut meats, a carvery under heat lamps, a slurry of chefs and wait staff running everywhere.



Raffles Hotel Bar & Billiard Room seafood on ice

I loved the neon blue ice bar with giant prawns, Irish and Tsarskaya oysters, Fine de Clair, crab claws and half lobster tails. The dessert selections were outrageous, some daubed in gold leaf, others drowning in wide glasses and fruit. The Coffee Caramel, served in small green elliptical bowl was simply stunning and enough to trigger my “get out soon” mode. I made for the door, passing rows of chocolates, dodging even more calorie bullets before hitting the cheese board selections and realising that I had failed in my escape. I needed a more worthy death, by cheese!

Raffles Hotel Bar & Billiard Room brunch chocolates

Raffles Hotel Bar & Billiard Room brunch cheese board selections

Raffles Hotel Singapore cheese board brunch Bar & Billiard Room

Reservations are a must and remember, this is a classy establishment, so try not to rock up in your singlet and thongs because there is a place for everything and everyone. The Raffles does not specialise in “the average” tourist meal and you pay for quality. If you want quantity and prices, McDonalds is across the road in the shopping mall. However, with the renovations to the Long Bar and the arcade, traffic is being directed to the Bar & Billiard Room.


No stay at the Raffles Hotel would be complete without a quick traipse down the small Hall of Fame. Situated on the first floor, you’ll see a plethora of photos and pictures lining the wooden corridor.

RAFFLES HOTEL SINGAPORE Hall of Fame print Royalty and Nobility

One of the first on the left sums up the Raffles Hotel, an etched print of the main building that is headlined “Patronised by Royalty and Nobility”. It was not far wrong. Black and white photos of the Duke & Duchess of Cambridge, Bill Clinton, Ken Follett, Boris Johnson and Catherine Deneuve. These are but a few of the notables, though there are absences too like Michael Jackson.

Stories abound at the Raffles and I so wanted to pick the brains of their Resident Historian, Leslie Danker, but time was against me. I gleaned tit bits. The last tiger shot in Singapore was in 1902. It had escaped from a nearby circus and was cowering under the Bar & Billiard Room when it was noticed and shot by Raffles Institution principal Charles McGowan Philips. Or when Michael Jackson stayed. He wanted to go to the zoo but too many fans were camped outside, so the hotel “brought the zoo to him” in the form of an orangutan that subsequently ran riot around the pool.


The Raffles Hotel has come a long way since 1887, when it first opened its doors as a humble 10-room bungalow at number 1 Beach Road. As the address implied, it was originally on the “beach”, not where it is today. But thanks to land reclamation, the Raffles is now a majestic inland feature that rises three stories high, with a rather bland view of the CBD, not the ocean view that author Joseph Conrad would have relished in 1888.  The number of rooms have also grown. Today the Raffles has 103 expansive suites, all framed by polished teak verandas and white marble colonnades. Their doors face inward, encircling perfectly manicured tropical gardens. It has the air of exclusiveness and privacy.


Raffles Hotel Singapore view above the lobby

The front façade is undoubtedly impressive with its striking white-washed walls and terracotta roofing. Even the giant palm trees and frangipanis that frame the sides of the building lend themselves to this feeling of tropical greatness. A grand entrance that has contributed to the Raffles Hotel being made a National Monument. Today, she is one of the last remaining 19th century hotels left in the world.

The Raffles Hotel was named after the venerable founder of Singapore, Sir Stamford Raffles/ She was run by the Sarkies Brothers, proprietors of the Eastern & Oriental in Penang.

Raffles Hotel Singapore extension plans

Business boomed for the Sarkies and they expanded their interests in Singapore. This included a major upgrade to the hotel. By 1899, the familiar Main Building, was completed and opened to a huge fanfare. Its neo-Renaissance style became the embodiment of the colonial, Golden era or exploration. Grand space. Luxury. Style. A list of firsts: electric lights and ceiling fans. A French chef.


Raffles Hotel Singapore Tiffin Room

Slowly but surely, the Raffles was giving birth to its legendary status. It became a magnet for the world’s great thinkers, travellers and actors. The Raffles became the darling of writers and “the men of letters”. They seemed to attract each other and gravitate to her doors. Names like Joseph Conrad, Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maughan. Faces of the silver screen like Charlie Chaplin, Maurice Chevallier, Frank Buck, Jean Harlow, Eva Gardener and Elizabeth Taylor. Yet not every part of the Raffles Hotel’s history was rosy.

1931 saw the collapse of the Malayan rubber trade and the Great Depression. Arshak Sarkies, the last of the Sarkies brothers, died and the Raffles Hotel, including the Eastern & Oriental Penang, were placed into receivership. A new company called Raffled Hotel Ltd was created under a Swiss general manager, Teddy Troller. Even its main competition, the Hotel de L’Europe closed its doors for good.

In 1941, Singapore was consumed by World War II, surrendering in 1942 to the ravages of the Japanese invading army.  But in 1945 she was liberated by the Allied Forces under Admiral Lord Louis Mountbatten. She became a transit camp for war prisoners – a shadow of her former self.

But the Raffles survived, allowing me to become another part of history.



I had a sombre mood before I checked into my flight on route to the Intercontinental Bangkok. I had purposely planned my Bangkok trip to fall on the 30th day, after the much-loved King Bhumibol Adulyadej had died. I expected the city to be in mourning. I wanted to share my respects too. 30 days was the accepted time for restraint and reverence.

Thailand holds a dear spot close to my heart. We have a lot of history together.  Even with the new king in waiting, Maha Vajiralongkor.

Maha Vajiralongkor was a client of mine from London days when he was the dapper Crown Prince. My family ran an upmarket interior design and gift business on the Kings Road in Chelsea, London. His wife, the Crown Princess, loved visiting us. I would lock the doors and give them (and their massive entourage of dark-suited diplomats and security guards) exclusive access to all four floors of the building, whilst they went shopping for the palace. And trust me they did! The process was fascinating.

Returning to Thailand evokes many memories for me. It is more than just a pleasure. I genuinely love the country. I love the people and their culture.

I didn’t take the Skytrain this time. I had too many bags to jostle through the turnstiles of the Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS as “rot fai fa”). I opted for a hotel limo to drop me at the Intercontinental Bangkok where I was greeted by a hanging poster of the late King. It was draped and framed in black and white material, a reminder that the hotel was in tune with the mood of the country too. In fact most of Bangkok was in the same vein of mourning,.

An officious white-gloved guard whistled us to a stop outside the lobby, as if this was his only purpose on the planet or he’d shoot you. I jest. That is all part of the culture and ritual that I love here in Thailand. I always tip my hand and salute to uniformed personnel, out of custom and respect. They never forget you when you do.


Intercontinental Bangkok hotel lobby

The Lobby

The lobby of the Intercontinental Bangkok is not imposing, though giant columns lend themselves to a feeling of power. It feels busy. Too busy.

To the right, there are ascending stairs to the first floor with an overlooking balcony. To the left is an almost unnoticeable, small concierge rest area with few seats. It has no real defining area, except for a few shelves with boxes and a standard lamp providing a zone of demarcation.

Beside it, to the right, you find stairs, only this time leading down to the lower street level and the Theo Mio restaurant and Grossi Trattoria & Wine Bar. And there is the Balcony Lounge and not too far from that, the check-in desk with a plethora of bronze colours and shapes. Above is a giant circular ceiling light that radiates golden light. It seems more becoming of a cruise ship or a ball room, than a hotel lobby. On the floor directly below it is a padded circular seat on a large round carpet. People fill the voids like scurrying ants. Some resting. Others just passengers on route. It is active but not frenetic

It is “very Thailand”.


I’m getting use to Intercontinental hotels. I like them. The check-in process is swift as we exchange details and my bags traffic themselves via a bellhop to my room. This time I’m not jet lagged. But I am in a hurry. I have a meeting within the hour. I need to do what I call a “Batman change”. Finding my room is imperative. I don’t need hassle or obstacles.

Predictably, the Intercontinental offers none.
I swiftly reach my room and swipe my electronic key card. Before I nudge open the door, I sigh. I have this familiar “welcome home” feeling. It’s good.

I smile.


The Room – #2018

I prise open the door with my foot and head toward the window light. It’s like a magnet. As a consummate traveller, I always throw open the curtains first. I want to know where I am. I’ll be living out of a suitcase, devoid of my creature comforts from home. This centres and placates me.

At the Intercontinental Bangkok I’m in for a treat. When I prise open the sheer curtains a swath of skyscape unfurls before me, the Bangkok I know and love. It could be reminiscent of Dubai or Tel Aviv, miles of concrete towers popping up with no discernible break in the pattern. The evening sunlight glints warm off the sun-bleached concrete and sky rise cladding. It is soothing.

Inside my Grande Deluxe Suite there is a preponderance of earthy, brown colours from the mirrored cupboard doors to the patterned carpet. A long bank of built-in drawers run full length with its doors cut in a chevron pattern according to the wood grain direction. One of the cupboards hid the mini bar, which slid quite easily if you tried to open the door (a sign that it was not very heavy and therefore empty!).

On top of one these sets of drawers was a kind of recessed nook with metal runners on the furniture and wall to house and protect your suitcase. Very useful. I’m not a fan of the fold-out luggage racks.

I immediately used it.

Intercontinental Bangkok hotel room electrical plug set up


A small glass desk jutted out from the wall, out of which emanated multiple plug and phone sockets (pre-configured for international travellers that don’t have adaptors). A love seat was positioned the opposite side, to the right of the window. In front was a small, round coffee table with a welcome fruit platter.

In keeping with the tones, even the king-size bed had a fawn coloured runner edged in a darker brown trim with a spiralling foliage pattern. At its foot lay a soft, padded stool. Two side tables stood either side of the mattress with thin dark legs; ample space for the glass ball lights, and the odd phone and message pad. The bed head was a giant feature in itself with long, beige rectangular leather padded tiles that ran to the ceiling. This was framed in a rather bold silver frame. A thin, colourful rectangular print ran the width the bed.



The hallway cupboard offered ample hanging space and of course, the trusty safe for securing personal belongings.

I loved the overall feel of the room. It was neither large or small. It was adequate for my short stay. My schedule was punishing and the bed became my best friend when I just wanted to crash and put my feet up.


The Bathroom

The bedroom feels like a subdued and mellow room, but wait until you see the bathroom. This is “in-your-face” ornate with bold yellowy-white and terracotta veined marble that makes you nod your head and purr. It is not decadent, but it is warming and inviting.

There is a walk-in shower and separate bath tub. I used both. And there were towels and robes in abundance, along with the bathroom shower gel, shampoo and body lotion accessories. Big ticks all around.



The Club Intercontinental

This was the 4th Club Intercontinental I had visited in a week and without question the one with the most impressive view. You are literally parked up against a window on the 37th floor, staring down at a racetrack. I couldn’t help wonder if it was the most expensive real estate in town! With a 9-hole golf course in the middle!

There are two definitive eating areas beyond the business section: the main buffet dining room with larger tables. This had a city view and quite a few tables. Or you could choose the quieter, smaller, elliptical windowed area with tables for two.

I opted for the latter because it was more secluded. From my eagle’s eye perch, in the safety of the club dining area, I could stare down on Bangkok for hours. There was so much to digest. It was like a giant poster of “Where’s Waldo” except I couldn’t find Waldo.

The club buffet was perfectly ample, nothing over the top. More of a sampling of choices. I have groomed myself to eat lean: smoked salmon, cold cuts, salad, muesli with yoghurt. Some fresh fruit. A little bit of cheese. I could have ordered more substantial food, but I was overly content to hover over my coffee and keep the waistline under control. I never needed more than what was on offer and it was totally within the Club Intercontinental concept that I was warming to more and more.

The Club Intercontinental Privileges

Guests have the opportunity to enjoy the following services and facilities:

  • Private check-in and check-out services at Club InterContinental Lounge
  • Daily fruits refreshment
  • Complimentary pressing of two items per stay
  • Complimentary one-hour usage per day of the meeting room at Club InterContinental Lounge
  • Complimentary local landline telephone calls
  • Complimentary high-speed internet connection
  • iPad available for use at Club InterContinental Lounge
  • Personalised Concierge and Business Services at Club InterContinental Lounge

A lot of the guest indulgence revolves around the elegantly appointed Club Lounge with its impeccable and noticeably high standard of Thai hospitality. It is also open from 6am to 11pm where guests enjoy:

  • Refreshment bar
  • Indoor seating in full air-conditioned comfort with a beautiful sunset view
  • Local & international newspapers, business & lifestyle magazines
  • Fully equipped meeting room


INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL BANGKOK rooftop view from swimming pool

Intercontinental Bangkok hotel roof top swimming pool

The Pool and Gym

If you whizz up to the top of the Intercontinental Bangkok you’ll find the small pool area with a bar cabana. Expect to find panoramic views of Bangkok, especially good at dusk when the sun sets.

There are sun lounges and towels for pool guests and though I only visited once, it was quite busy and mostly used for refreshing dips rather than exercise. If you wanted a work out, you headed to the lower gym below which was not your average health club, but certainly housed enough gear to work up a sweat and keep you toned on the road.

My Favourite Dining Areas

Here’s a little secret and a massive dichotomy: I’m not a big fan of eating in hotels. But I do like to stay in them (a lot). I just feel that eating in a hotel is somewhat lazy and unimaginative when there is so much more choice out there. If you’re going to visit a country, then do just that – visit it.

Don’t hibernate in your hotel!

I’m more of an explorer. I like to get out and “do as the Romans do in Rome”. To hunt down where the locals hang. But this trip has completely re-written my text book on travel dining logic, particularly in Bangkok and it begins squarely with Theo Mio.


Theo Mio Italian restaurant Intercontinental Bangkok

Theo Mio

Theo Mio has become my favourite restaurant in Bangkok which is like a slap in the face to my love of Thai food. I didn’t go to Bangkok to eat Italian, but I did. Twice. At the same joint.

Theo Mio is the brain child of award winning chef Theo Randall. It is a modern street-front Italian kitchen located on the ground floor of the Intercontinental Bangkok which straddles the Phloen Road and what would normally be a rather uninspiring view of concrete and people; there are lots of both. Yet Theo Mio breathes life into this corner with its bold glass frontage and external terrace edged with carefully planted shrubs and topiary trees. Turquoise umbrellas and blue padded chairs add colour to this little garden enclave which is mirrored inside by gigantic ficus trees in dark ceramic planters. The black and white mezzanine floor adds even more authenticity to the Italian kitchen concept, along with the baskets and bread racks, the dangling salami meat and the blackboard menus.

The feel is definitely bright and airy. Quite intimate with its open-kitchen plan and seating choices. I loved the studded bench seating that ran uninterrupted around the windows as well as the little touches of throw cushions. Even the limited number of bar stools lent themselves to the cucina experience as you gawped at the busy chefs whipping fresh produce into action.


Theo Mio carpaccio Bangkok

Theo Mio table setting Intercontinental Bangkok hotel

The Carpaccio di Manzo was a game winner with its thinly sliced beef filet, toasted pine nuts, wild rocket and large parmesan shavings. It was supposed to come with aged balsamic vinegar and Puglian olive oil but after a quick rummage around the rocket leaves I was compelled to call for some (or extra).

On two occasions, I ordered the gorgeous traditional Ligurian Trofie al Pesto Genovese with fresh pesto, potato and green beans. And I stole mouthfuls of the Risotto con Gamberoni e Zucchini (prawn risotto) and the Pappardelle con Ragu di Guancia (ribbon pasta with slow cooked wagu beef cheeks) from my paying guests. Thumbs up all around.

Theo Mio chocolate and bronze hammer Intercontinental Bangkok

When coffee time beckoned, a thin slab of chocolate accompanied it, served on a chopping board with a bronze hammer to smash it. Clever. Memorable.

The wine choice was excellent and the atmosphere lively and I have to say, the service was brilliant. I barely had to look parched before my glass was topped up.

From antipasti to pizza, the choice is spot on. Prices are as expected for a hotel but nothing outrageous either. Pretty much what’s you’d expect to pay for good Italian fare.

Seats:              62 seats (main dining); 32 seats (terrace)

Open:              11:30 to 23:30 (daily); 11:30 to 14:00 (weekend brunch)

Address:          973 Phloen Chit Road, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330

Telephone:      +66 (0) 2 656 0444

Website:         Theo Mio website


Fireplace-Grill-&-Bar Intercontinental Bangkok hotel

Fireplace Grill & Bar

The Fireplace Grill & Bar is the Intercontinental Hotel’s legendary steakhouse that has fed carnivores with its superior grilled meats since 1966. The flair and style is very French with starters like escargots (French snails) to frog legs, roasted bone marrow, beef cheek, foie gras, beef tartar and even Osetra Caviar Prestige for the slightly more financially cash flushed. Not to be outdone, seafood is thrown in for good measure. Try the “From The Sea” sharing platter and get stuck into the oysters, Alaskan King Crab legs, Maine Lobster, prawns and green lip mussels from New Zealand.
The main courses are equally impressive: pan fried scallops, duck a l’orange, duet of wagyu lamb, and prime rib (served with Yorkshire pudding, just to make the poms feel at home). In fact Wagyu leads the menu on the grill, followed by the tried and tested Black Angus steak.

The wine menu boats an equally impressive range of French wines and champagnes, though the Italians and new world varietals do get a look-in too.

The restaurant is timelessly classic with distinct modern touches and an open-kitchen design. All the action happens around the centre-mounted charcoal grill for true culinary theatre.

Open:              12:00 to 14:30 hours (lunch daily); 18:30 to 22:30 hours (dinner daily)

Telephone:      +66 (0) 2 656 0444 ext. 5505

Website:         Fireplace Grill & Bar website


Location of the Intercontinental Bangkok

The Intercontinental Bangkok could not be more perfectly located, being in the Rathchaprasong district, one of most pre-eminent business and commercial areas in the city. You are a stone’s throw away from the Erawan Shrine and walking distance to all the major shopping centres like MBK, Siam Paragon and Centralworld. If you’re smart, use the covered walkway that follows the route of the Skytrain. It is right outside the hotel and helps you avoid the endless traffic lights and intersections.

  • Adjacent to Chidlom BTS Skytrain Station
  • 25 KMs from Suvarnabhumi Airport
  • 40 minutes by car via Express Way from Suvarnabhumi International Airport
  • 20 minutes via Airport City Line from Suvarnabhumi International Airport to Phaya Thai BTS Skytrain
  • 3 stops from Phraya Thai BTS Station to Chidllom Station
  • 20 KMs from Don Muang International Airport
  • 30 minutes via Express Way from Don Muang International Airport

Final Words from the Walking Critic

I have stayed in well over 20 hotels in Bangkok and it annoys me that I have not looked at the Intercontinental Bangkok before, because it ticked all the boxes.

The room was sizeable, modern and well furnished. The bed was amazingly comfortable. It had the right number of electrical outlets for charging my phone, lap top and cameras, all at the same time. The bathroom was wonderfully spacious and I pretty much wanted for nothing. Room service was done without me even noticing.

Location was a huge major plus….and I can’t underline this enough. A huge plus.

The Skywalk is right outside the hotel lobby with all major shopping centres in walking distance (do take comfy shoes). The night life and markets are equally close by, and I barely used a taxi (or tuk tuk) during my whole stay.

Price-wise, the Intercontinental Bangkok sits on the edge of the comfort zone for the budget-minded but totally on par with other “international brand” hotel chains. I would easily recommend this hotel for both for tourists, because of its proximity to shopping and tourist attractions. And as for the business traveller, it is a total winner, especially if you go for the Club Intercontinental experience. I was able to work and enjoy my time in Bangkok without flinching. It has completely whet my appetite for more Intercontinental hotel experiences.


When I arrived at the Intercontinental Kuala Lumpur, I felt a bit like Caesar returning to Rome after years of fighting Barbarians in the wilderness. By the time I had checked out a few days later, I felt as if I’d won an Oscar.

And that was the point.

This was not a coincidence. This was supposed to happen. I was meant to have an Intercontinental experience.

Just like all the other guests.

But someone should have warned me not to fall in love.

Thanks to the brilliant Vicky Wong, Director of Marketing & Communications at the Intercontinental Kuala Lumpur, I had arranged for a driver to meet me at the airport and sure enough, there was “Jauzi” waiting for me at the arrival gate. After being in four countries in 29 hours, I could have kissed him. He was like an apparition at the end of a long, dark tunnel.

I was whisked through the formalities of customs and baggage claim by my driver and eventually into his gleaming black BMW. I took a bottle of chilled fresh water, swabbed my brow with a towel (god knows how filthy I must have looked and been) and settled in for the 45-minute journey to the city. I was feeling somewhat shell-shocked. I was no longer in an aeroplane and wow that felt good.

Arrival was a breath of fresh air too. As the car pulled up to the front of the hotel, my door was opened by a beautiful, beaming face that greeted me by name. Personal touches matter to me, especially a grubby and weary executive who was sick and tired of being treated like toothpaste being squeezed from a tube – at least that’s how I describe air travel!




The Lobby

The lobby is fascinating and very clever, a modern, powerful, fusion of contrasting textures and shadows. Behind the reception desk is a giant climbing mural of sharp, golden erratic triangles and diagonal lines that cast angular shadows and patterns everywhere. It is like a tryptic rock formation. Or a giant game of Tetris that’s collapsed.

Counter to this are the smooth polished floor tiles below, with tiny square insets, providing conformity and consistency underfoot. Even the reception desk refracts light off the marble floor from its back-lit rectangular panel. But the pièce de résistance, the jewel in the crown, are the glass pillars that frame the hanging centrepiece where dangling shards of glass glint in the light and emulate a cascading waterfall. And if you look carefully beyond it, a staircase is revealed, rising into the heart of the property. The soul and real reason for being at the Intercontinental Kuala Lumpur.




Check-in was a painless and flawless process of name, rank and number (credit card that is). By the time I had blinked, I was being escorted to the elevator and into my room. My poor old bags, brimming with dirty clothing, were there before me, I could hear them begging to be cleaned. But not today.

Room # 2709

I get really excited by what lies behind a hotel door. The expectancy of the unknown driving me as I pull out my key card and wait for the, “Whoa!”

First impressions are everything to me.

Once in, I invariably move with trepidation towards the window to find my bearings and soak up the moment of where I am. I want to know what view I have. It defines the importance of the space; my new home.

I was booked into a Deluxe City View Room, which was precisely that, with a startling panorama of soaring skyscrapers bursting upwards and everywhere. But that was the beauty of it: urban art. It was reminiscent of where I’d just been, the concrete maze of San Francisco. I liked it. It was comforting. It was all I wanted or needed.

And then I switch mode.

I have a mental check list of things that I go through every time I step into a hotel.

Where are the plugs? How many are there? Is there a luggage rack? What are the bathroom amenities and shampoos like? Is the bathroom clean? Are the towels soft and do they have a bathrobe? Where is the safe? Is there a mini bar? Is there room in the fridge for my own things? Can I get laundry done and how soon? Do they have Wifi? Where is the password? How is the bed?

I’m an expert on beds. My family use to run an interior design business in London and all our beds were bespoke-made and hotel quality. The king size bed was gorgeous and inviting. I had to test it. I threw myself star-fish on top without pulling back the sheets and woke up 13 hours later.

I think it passed!

I travel with a lot of electrical goods: phones, cameras, computers, tablets. Finding plugs is the single most important criteria I look for in a room and Intercontinental Kuala Lumpur was not only up to the grade here, it excelled. A big tick for having a plug socket close to the bedside table for charging my laptop and mobile phone and better still, a built-in adaptor board by the desk. No need to rummage around for travel adaptors as this was provided for in the same board. A simple time-saving process of “lock and load” or plug in and go!

Next is the safe. I’m a man of process. I deconstruct my backpack of all valuables and lock away my cash, passport and other irreplaceable necessities. I liked the fact that this was not at floor level too. Again, ease of access for someone on the move where time is money.

Ample hangars and shelf space made unpacking a joy, and better still, there is a fixed rack to keep one’s luggage, without having to dump one’s case on the floor. I like an element of decorum when I travel, not mess. Another tick.



The Bathroom

The bathroom suite was an abundance of space and light with a full-length mirror creating even more depth. I liked the open-plan feel created by having a glass window separate the bathroom and bedroom, instead of a closed-in brick wall. You could either choose to soak in the bath tub and peer into the bedroom or simply roll down the blind for privacy. Or for those on the run, you always have the option of a separate walk-in shower with heavy glass door.

A lush marble counter top was also inviting with its mild yellow and earthy tones. Beside the basin was also the signature Intercontinental amenity box of gels and shampoos, sided with hand towels and face cloths. Inside were the usual culprits of branded cotton buds, tooth brush, shoe polish and other amenities.





Club Intercontinental 

It was here, on the 26th floor, at the Club Intercontinental Lounge, around 06.15m, that I had an epiphany. I was shrugging off the vestiges of jet lag, wide awake and watching the condensation build on and roll down the windows. The dawn light was brightening over Kuala Lumpur. I had already ordered a cappuccino and was wandering about ogling at the tantalising buffet selections. No guests were there. It was just me, myself and I…and a few staff members.

My mind was focused on the day ahead. I didn’t want clutter and noise and random people doing random, distracting things. I had my business head on. I just wanted somewhere that suited my purpose. And that was the Club Intercontinental Lounge.

I had been in so many places, in such a short time, that I hadn’t realised how vital a “Club” concept was to me. As an executive, I needed two things: time and money. I could not afford to lose either. I needed both the tangible and intangible benefits of having things at my fingertips.
The Club Intercontinental delivered this:

  • Dedicated check-in and check-out
  • Complimentary High Speed internet
  • Concierge and Business Services
  • Late check-out (until 16.00 hrs) when available
  • Club Lounge Buffet Breakfast and a la carte selections (06.30 to 10.30 hrs or 11.00 on weekends and bank holidays)
  • Serena Brasserie Buffet Breakfast (06.00 to 10.30 hrs daily)
  • Club Lounge Afternoon Tea with snacks (15.00 to 17.00 hrs)
  • Club Lounge Evening Cocktail with cocktails & appetizers (17.30 to 19.30 hrs)
  • All-day refreshments (06.30 to 23.00 hrs) – juice, tea, coffee, soft drinks
  • One complimentary visitor to the Club during the stay

I remember thinking to myself, what a great place to hold a Board Room meeting in the Club Board Room. I just wish I’d been more organised and used my complimentary hour as a Club Intercontinental guest.

The newly refurbished Club Lounge is really modern and openly furnished over two levels: the lower food court and buffet area; the quieter upper lounge with tub chair seating and a private Board Room.

There was an immensity of choice from the buffet food selections, all of which I could easily have attacked and devoured, but experience has taught me to go nimble on the palette and stomach, especially on long journeys (and holidays!). I approached one of the young chefs and said, “Make me any omelette of your choice.” This was one decision I was willing to relinquish and an excellent one too.





Tao Chinese Cuisine

Tao Chinese Cuisine is for the discerning connoisseur that loves traditional Chinese food with an impressive dim sum menu. The name “Tao” is taken from the Mandarin for peach, and it has consequently adopted the bloom motif of the pale pink April peach flower. The restaurant is a contrast of dark wood and bright lights, soft linens and striking carpet patterns. A collection of hundreds of carefully chosen Chinese teapots adorn the nooks and wall features, creating a unique showroom feel that would be worthy of any collector.  Tao also houses six private dining rooms with their own story to tell based upon the six dynasties in China: Han, Song, Tang, Yuan, Ming and Qin.

For me the food was the nectar in the peach flower. I was honoured to share a tasting with General Manager Clive Murray and to be dazzled by award winning Chef Wong Lian You. He introduced each plate as it arrived at the table, with such a broad Chinese accent that I just nodded and smiled. Where my ears failed me, I let the food do the talking. It was superb. A perfect balance of old-world-meets-new.





Tatsu Japanese Cuisine


I did not expect to do a double feast in one sitting but when Clive Murray, General Manager, told me to up sticks from Tao Chinese Cuisine and head here to Tatsu Japanese Cuisine I was not expecting that. Nor was I expecting such stunning presentation and outstandingly exquisite sashimi from Chef Tadashi Inose.

Tatsu is true to Japanese aesthetics where simplicity underscores the complexity of great food. The surroundings are clean and modern, a fusion of contemporary minimalism and modernism that flows effortlessly across the sushi bar, teppanyaki counter, the main dining room and the lounge bar. There are also four private dining rooms for executive meetings or special occasions.

I loved the little touches: the ice mould; the “hit me” chocolate which you literally have to mash and mangle before eating.

Thank god I didn’t tuck into the sake and wine, because this is a connoisseur’s paradise surrounded by floor to ceiling glass windows. The views are stunning. You can ogle at the cascading waterfall and perfectly manicured gardens whilst sampling any of the 20 types of sake, as well as Shochu and wines.





Bentley’s Pub

Bentley’s Pub touts itself as “an authentic English pub in the heart of Kuala Lumpur” and in that respect, it is like an old English pub, though this one is distinctly less traditional and definitely more in tune with modern day “brand” pub chains.

For me, my visit was a quiet affair, fresh off a late flight on a Monday evening. I was gagging to have anything to eat that didn’t resemble airline food and by god it was good. I opted for the beef burger with tomato and sweet onion relish, and lettuce and a fat glass of wine to wash it down. Pure heaven. It was exactly the shining star I needed to see and follow.

It is called The Bentley’s Pub Dining Menu Edition Daily which is really a menu printed on a kind of A3 newspaper look-alike, with a few ditties pilfered from news articles in 1671 (good reading in a pub, by the way). My “menu” story was about a certain Thomas “Colonel” Blood and a few of his reprobates who bluffed their way into the Tower of London to steal the gem-encrusted Crown jewels. Their joy was given short shrift, as they were quickly captured in possession of their stolen cargo. King Charles II subsequently learnt of Blood’s incredible daring and was so impressed that he forgave and pardoned him and then sent him to Ireland to live on a vast estate he had granted him.

On the back of the menu is a gigantic list drinks, of which whisky fills up about 50% of the page. Beer, cocktails and liqueurs fill the rest of the space.

Another sign that caught my attention was clearly pitched at Thursday ladies Night. It read, “Skirt nite. Anyone in skirt drinks free from 6pm to 8pm.” I wondered if I wore one too, would I get a free drink? Would I lower myself to that level? Mind you Colonel Blood did!

I only had one negative comment and that is smoking. There is a smoking section in the pub which was close enough for some trendy yuppy to waft painfully repulsive billows of cigar smoke my way. Surely in this day and age they can go outside to kill themselves, no?



Serena Brasserie

Serena Brasserie offers a truly tranquil setting for hotel guests to enjoy a medley of international flavours from its huge buffet spread or a la carte options. It delves into the local Malay, as well as Chinese and Indian cultures offering variety for all palates and tastes.

OneSixFive-lounge Intercontinental Hotel Kuala Lumpur


IVIV (OneSixFive) Lounge & Bar

OneSixFive (I prefer this name to the less confusing Roman numeral title of IVIV – which sounds more like an “ivy” plant you could get poisoned from) is the embodiment of a stylish lounge. Giant windows offer a tropical, water-feel that is both soothing and a perfect presentation for relaxing with company or on your own.

Try the freshly baked cakes or the signature afternoon tea. Or amp up the volume later with cocktails or wines from the bar. Here you’ll find less pizzazz than most hotel bars, but that in itself offers a more intimate vibe to while away the evening listening to soft jazz.

Final Words from The Walking Critic

Of the 10 hotels I visited in 16 days, I will say this: Intercontinental Kuala Lumpur was singularly the most organised and welcoming or all the hotel properties I stayed at. They moved mountains to help me, before, during and after my stay. Without their input, my journey would have been half the experience it could have been in KL.

I would never have seen the hero sites of KL: the Batu Caves, the Lake Gardens, the Islamic Arts Museum, lunch at Sri Nirwana Maju, Merdeka (Independence Square). I would have missed an induction into local life. Never eaten at local haunts or sampled such a broad tourist experience. I am immensely grateful. But the most enduring part of my stay was having an affinity to the Intercontinental brand. Relating to the Club Intercontinental experience. Finding myself smiling, because they understood my expectations and made my surroundings subliminally familiar.

In the coming days, I was to value and cherish these same concepts in two other properties too: Bangkok and Singapore.

But I know one thing for sure. It was here that I unwittingly fell in love with Intercontinental.

I just didn’t know it yet.



Intercontinental Kuala Lumpur

165 Jalan Ampang 50450

Kuala Lumpur

T: +60 3 2782 6000

F: +60 3 2161 1122



Pan Pacific Hotel Review Singapore


I love that nervous feeling when you pull up to the front of a hotel like the Pan Pacific Hotel Singapore and you just know that you’ve arrived somewhere special before you even step out of the car.

The Pan Pacific Singapore was no exception. From the very second my taxi door was eased open by a smiling doorman, I sensed that I was special too.

That my needs mattered.

That someone else cared about me and what I wanted.

I spend a lot of time travelling on the road and reviewing hotels both for work and a growing list of readers. And I love it when everything seems to gel and come together. When the check in process is so effortless and soothing, that in one fell swoop, your body untangles every tense knot and just melts into this kneaded lump of puppy-dog contentment.

My opening reception augured well for my upcoming “Odyssey”. In the next 16 days, I was going to stay in 10 hotels, in four countries. And now, with hindsight on my side, I can look back affectionately and say, that the Pan Pacific Singapore eclipsed, outclassed and outshone most hotels I stayed in.



Harbour Studio – Room 3117

I barely had to breath for myself as I ambled across the foyer towards the elevator. I was in the capable hands of Charlene Ong, the Guest Services Officer, my bags already on route to my room on the 31st floor.

Service is clearly a forté of the Pan Pacific.

When the doors whoosed open, they revealed an external lift with the most amazing floor-to-ceiling glass view of the city. As we ascended to the 31st floor I watched the turquoise blue of the swimming pool disappear beneath me. It looked endlessly inviting, even on a grey, rainy day. But my real treat was yet to come: the room.

I was booked into a Harbour Studio, room 3117, which at 46 square metres (495 square feet) was not titanic but incredibly stylish. As a man on the go, it ticked most of my boxes with an enormous cherry on top, an outrageously great view beyond the Marina Bay towers and out towards Sentosa Island. On this morning, I spied two cruise ships in the distant port, side by side.

There was no luggage rack immediately noticeable (built in or otherwise) which was disappointing, but cupboard and hangar space was ample for the stay. I often prefer to dump and live out of my unzipped suitcase in lieu of unpacking it. A mild irritation.

I found a safe in the closet too, quite a large one, always a welcome resource for my clutch of meagre items (mostly cash and electronic goodies). I smile when I find one, mostly out of habit, not insecurity. And better still, I prefer a lock box with a four-digit code. I’m always flummoxed when I have to contrive a six-digit passcode when jet lag reigns supreme. I’m pretty sure I don’t have a six-digit code for anything back home home and I’m damned if I’m going to break that habit in another country. Too much stress to deal with.

The Desk

Work space is crucial to me, but even that pales in significance to one other thing: electric sockets.  I need them.

I travel for work and with me comes enough electronic hardware to light up a factory: laptop, iPad, phones, camera (generally two), back up battery pack. You get the gist. Nothing bugs me more than when I find there are limited or no electrical plugs, especially near the desk, or by the bedside table. The Pan Pacific Singapore had not such issues. A massive tick.

And trailing close behind, nearly neck and neck, is my need for internet access. This too was provided complimentary with my stay.

King-Size Bed

I swivelled my focus to the king-sized bed. It was alluring, delicious, huge. Beautifully set against a soft, panelled wall that had a distinct neutral, yet Asian theme. Like immovable papyrus panels lit my warm wall lights.

I love a big bed. It has to be soft. Warm. A giant workstation that I can crash in. I can put my laptop beside me. A book. A phone. A newspaper. I can drift off and relinquish myself to sleep, but when I wake up, everything will be just as it was. Barely a crease in the sheets. A well-earned slumber that was only possible from space and comfort.

These are the little things that matter. To me.

The Bathroom

When people say, “It’s like a hotel bathroom,” they do so for a reason because it carries connotations of being lavish and plush and often over the top. As travellers, we forget that we spend a very large percentage of our hotel time in our bathrooms which is why space matters in this room. So do the accessories.

The Pan Pacific Singapore does not cut corners here. The premium Hans Grohe fittings, the marble surrounds, the fresh white robes and towels, and rain shower completing the “hotel bathroom” feel. The “home-away-from-home” we all yearn for.I loved the glass window pane above the bath tub. It made the studio brighter and that much more spacious and inviting. I took a bubble bath and watched the flat-screen TV in the lounge with the integrated speaker volume up and the lights off. It was really soothing and regenerative.

Pan Pacific Singapore mini bar contents

The Little Bits That Count

I’m not a giant mini-bar user (especially with prohibitively expensive prices!) but this one was fully computerized and automated, apart from being well stocked and very cold: Asahi, Heineken and Tiger beer; tonic, juice and Perrier; Bombay Sapphire gin, Smirnoff Vodka, Bacardi rum; Snickers, M&Ms, Twix and an Alpen bar. I did, however, dip into the slightly less fattening complimentary fruit bowl.


The Dining Experience

Embark on a diverse culinary experience at Pan Pacific Singapore,” the hotel likes to boast and they are not far wrong: innovative dining concepts, award winning restaurants, a massive, full length 44-metre lobby bar and a gourmet marketplace are but a few of the treats on offer.


Hai Tien Lo Winter Solstice Pine Set

Han Tien Lo

The Pan Pacific Singapore is renown for its choice of food and if there is one restaurant that leads the charge, it is the superb, award-winning Han Tien Lo. Here you find the best traditional Cantonese dining with a contemporary twist. The chefs still dip into age-old recipes to produce classic dishes, but their modern spin has got the food pundits calling it ‘new Cantonese’ cuisine.

Leading the foray is Master Chef Lai Tong Ping whom I had the great pleasure of being cooked for and served by. A medley of outstanding dishes from dim sum, double-boiled soup, Peking duck and a modern spin on the “Trio of Treasures” and “Lobster in Lemon Butter Sauce”.

  • Location: Level 3
  • Seating: 180
  • Private dining: Room for 20 guests, 4 private dining rooms (10 guests each); 4 semi-private dining rooms (8 guests)

Opening Hours

  • Lunch: 12:00pm to 02:30pm (daily)
  • Dinner: 06:30pm to 10:30p (daily)




Edge presents an engaging gastro-tainment dining experience and a culinary tour of Singapore, the region and the Pacific Rim. Seven ‘live’ food theatres present a la minute cuisine which include a variety of delectable Asian and Pacific cuisines – including Chinese, Malay, Indian, Singaporean, Japanese and Pan Pacific’s signature “Pacific Cuisines”. A self-serve dining concept, diners are invited to explore the live food theatres to interact with the chefs and take their pick from an extensive choice of almost 120 dishes and 35 desserts that are available. For the ultimate indulgence, Sunday Champagne Brunch is a convivial event with traditional roasts, crustacean on ice, freshly-made pasta, a grill, 30 types of cheese and 20 varieties of dessert.

Opening Hours

  • Breakfast: 06:00am to 10:30am
  • Lunch: 12:00pm to 02:30pm (daily)
  • Makan Makan: 12:00pm to 04:00pm (Saturdays only)
  • Sunday Champagne Brunch: 12:00pm to 04:00pm (Sundays only)
  • Dinner: 06:30pm to 10:30p (daily)


Pan-Pacific-Singapore Keyaki-restaurant sushi choicess



Renowned for the use of seasonal delicacies air-flown from Japan, Keyaki provides authentically prepared and immaculately presented traditional Japanese cuisine. These include sashimi, teppanyaki, kaiseki, omakase and more. Perched on level 4 of the hotel and surrounded by a beautifully sculpted Japanese garden and koi pond, this elegant venue provides an authentic setting for Chef Hiroshi Ishii’s exquisite cuisine.

  • Location: Level 4
  • Seating: 146
  • Private Dining: One private Tatami room (six persons): one private Western dining room (10 persons); one semi-private dining room (eight persons); four outdoor tables (seating four persons each)

Opening Hours

  • Lunch: 12:00pm to 2.30pm daily
  • Dinner: 6.30pm to 10:30pm daily


Atrium Bar Aerial View

Atrium Bar

Located in the heart of the lobby, Atrium presents a curated collection of craft beers, boutique wines and spirits. Guests can enjoy a bespoke cocktail at the dramatic 44-metre (144 feet) long bar or have an intimate tête-à-tête at a private pod floating over a reflection pool.

  • Location: Ground floor
  • Seating: 207
  • Pods: 16 pods (holding a total of 132 persons)
  • Living Room: seats 48
  • Front & Back Bar Counters: seats 24

Opening hours

  • 10:00am to 01:00am (Sunday to Thursday)
  • 10:00am to 02:00am (Friday & Saturday)

Hotel Indigo Bali Review


I’m such a banana. I really am. Once again I’m guilty of judging a book by its cover.

But what are we, as human beings, without our frailties and imperfections?

The good news is that this story that has a happy ending.

Mark my words, Hotel Indigo is up there with the best of the best! It is a click away from being on the dais sporting a gold medal. I just haven’t had time to experience the full property.


HOTEL INDIGO BALI main pool ocean view


Months ago, I was sent an artist’s impression of the Hotel Indigo and it all looked fanciful and sun-setty and Balinesey. It was an artist’s rendition of what I absolutely hate: fake sunsets; chopped down forests; really good-looking people (looking better and thinner than me). In bikinis. Drinking cocktails. Blue sky. No clouds. Yeah, right! This is Bali.

At that particular, pin-pointed moment, I would have accepted deforestation and ecological devastation, just to escape onto another hotel brochure.

But I didn’t.

What I ultimately bore witness to was an unreal vision that became a reality. The story board gained lungs and life. It really happened.

And I was there to witness it.




I’ve written a lot of hotel reviews in three and a half decades, but let’s just say this: I have never enjoyed an arrival as much as I did at the Hotel Indigo.

It was not what I expected. There was no kerb-side flop, a disembowelment from a taxi into subservient hands.  No big canopy guarding an entrance.

Here everything was Imperial. Majestic. Towering, non-descript, staggered and terraced walls. A giant courtyard of planned conformity. Striking trees glowing from the up-lighting. Something befitting of royalty. Even lowly subjects like me!


HOTEL INDIGO BALI REVIEW lobby neighbourhood

HOTEL INDIGO BALI REVIEW telephone table yellow



A short and broad staircase led upwards and into the bosom of the property. I saw nothing but a vertical escalation and into a glint of dangling ceiling lights. I was lured upwards with nervous trepidation. I knew something special was about to unravel. But I was flummoxed by what?

And then it happened.

I peaked and crested into the lobby. It was breathtaking. Staggering.


For one fleeting moment in my life, I had indeed become royalty.




The lobby is an immense and prodigious testament to local design with artefacts clustered into lit alcoves, each one telling its own story. Furniture is tastefully thematic to its culture with dabs of colour breaking the norm of dark woods. Delicate wicker contrasting with heavy frames.

Sculpture, china, variety and humour is pervasive in the theme.

Even the ceiling is an incredible design of interlocking latticework, a disparate array of pendulous lights hanging from a puzzle of crafted woodwork.

And then there was the view, drawing your eyes over the enclosed resort and swimming pool below, onwards and outwards to the ocean. There was only one word for it: wow.


HOTEL INDIGO BALI review check in staff


Every process at Hotel Indigo is effortless including the check-in. Before I blinked I had a room key in my hands. In fact, I nearly forgot to give them my credit card to guarantee my stay, even though I was there as a complimentary guest. I must have been all-absorbed by the moment.

Interestingly enough, the reception desk is not in plain view. You had to meander to the right and around a corner to find it. It’s as if the architect purposely wanted it and everyone to be out of sight and out of mind. To maintain the integrity of the impression, the “painting”, devoid of human clutter.


HOTEL INDIGO BALI REVIEW room 3225 door sign


Getting to my hotel room was another amazing experience. When the elevator doors opened on the third floor, I stared down into a vast courtyard of giant palms. The hotel rooms encircled it on all four sides. Walkways were al fresco, propped up by columns marked by grey volcanic stone colours. It felt almost industrial, yet incredibly quiet. I barely saw another soul. I only heard the echo of my own footsteps, as I approached my door, inserted my key and entered.

Bursts of colour and light suddenly greeted me again. Like a sandwich, I’d gone from the vibrancy of the lobby, to the solemnity of the walkways and now back into a gush of colour as I entered my room. A small foyer, more alcoves, more warm light. A Nespresso coffee machine, decorative coffee and tea mugs, fresh oranges, opulence, action. It was an interior decorator’s paradise with cutting edge accessories.



HOTEL INDIGO BALI REVIEW couch coffee table


I plunged onto my bed, somewhat exhausted and sticky. I’d just reviewed three other hotels and my body was verging on shut down mode. I wanted the soft linen and pillows to envelope me and they did. I was in paradise. I even clicked on the widescreen TV (being an ex-political reporter, news is my staple diet, even on the road).

I loved the clever, really intelligent use of pictures and lights. The striking, bold colours were not lost on me. They predominance of blues and yellows worked and blended incredibly well from the stripy bed cover, to the damask-type carpet. Even the garish yellow message pad beside the phone felt at place.




Stepping into the bathroom was another journey of mystery and intrigue. It had an almost arabesque feel with black and white mosaics and this unusual, golden washbasin or chalice and hanging ladle in the middle of the shower.

“Wouldn’t this be decadent if filled with champagne,” I thought to myself.

And then you could step out onto your own private balcony with suspended sofa hammocks. Close and intimate.

My only negative was twofold: first having no one to share this moment with; secondly that the view was blighted by a derelict, unfinished construction site. Apparently, it was going to be a hotel, but the developer went broke. At least the hotel was growing creeper vines up the walls to somewhat blot out the horrible view.





I like to judge hotels by their bars. It gives you an arterial feel to the pulse of the place. And the Tree Bar should have been just that. But it wasn’t.

Set on the lower level, the sunken Tree Bar offers a stunning view of the resort across the verdant lawns and tropical gardens, towards the feature swimming pool and ocean. The interior is modern and in keeping with the pendant, hanging lights. The namesake “tree” is conspicuous and dominant, rising through the lattice framing. But the bar lacked soul.


HOTEL INDIGO BALI REVIEW view from Tree Bar to garden


I was with a group of 20 or so travel professionals and we were the only token imbibers in the evening. For a five-star hotel, this was odd, especially when the bar closed at 11pm! This left a few parched and upset travellers scratching their collective heads.





As far as I was concerned, The Pottery Café was the saving grace for Hotel Indigo even though I had a redeye flight to catch and never got more than a croissant and take away coffee before catching my flight.


HOTEL INDIGO BALI review Pottery Cafe Kevala pottery

HOTEL INDIGO BALI REVIEW restaurant tables

HOTEL INDIGO BALI REVIEW pottery cafe crudities


The decoration is superb and stylish with mezzanine black and whites creating that upmarket café ambience. Kevala pottery fills the shelves injecting more colour and local flair back into the place. I loved the originality and the clever, modern design from the furnishing to the household accessories.



I love surprises and when the Hotel Indigo offered me a free massage I was not going to disappoint them.

The Spa is situated at the front of the property, in what they call a “calming oasis inspired by the rich culture of Seminyak.” Like the rest of the hotel, it is steeped in local tradition providing a wide range of unique wellness journeys. All-natural Asian lifestyle products are on offer too.

I opted for a one-hour massage and after signing away my medical questionnaire, I was led downstairs for my treatment.

I prefer a deep tissue massage to knead away my stresses. The old rugby and sports injuries never lurking far from resurfacing as my body ages.

My lovely masseuse hit the spot and I can hardly say that about my last few experiences around Asia. I left them with bruises and in more disrepair than I started with.

Not the case here. My treatment was one of the best I’ve ever had. The setting and mood was perfect, the staff incredibly professional and friendly. I actually walked out with a spring in my step.



Hotel Indigo is by far the best property I have stayed at in Bali.  If the Mulia wins on class, then the Hotel Indigo wins on style. It is younger and more funkier in temperament and is truly an oasis right off Double Six Beach.

You have the ocean at the end of the resort and the local Seminyak neighbourhood to the rear. In between you simply have your own private bliss.

Mark my words, Hotel Indigo is going places.



For the latest and best deals for staying at the Hotel Indigo in Seminyak, it is worth checking out BlueSun Travel. Often the Hotel Indigo is featured every month with fabulous travel packages.

Click here for more information: BlueSun Travel  or call 1300 799 758.


Number of Rooms:  289

Number of Suites:  23

Number of Non-Smoking rooms:  289

Number of rooms for the physically challenged:  3

Number of floors:  4

Total number of Rooms with One Bed:  249


I’d never been to Nusa Dua and now I have.

It only took me 50 years to get there.

Nusa Dua is a far departure from the frenetic pulse-beating bass of Bali’s Legian and Kuta bars. It is a world unto itself, vast swathes of greenness and manicured grasses dotted with fallen white frangipani petals. It is serene. Home to holiday resorts that are more like neighbouring Hollywood estates than hotel complexes. They sidle up next to each other without the blight of glowing neon billboards. They just blend beautifully into the background without being obtrusive, no matter how grand they are.


GRAND HYATT NUSA DUA view to the ocean



I wish the Western world would take notice of this. Even make laws. How to take your place in society without becoming a blot or blemish on your surroundings. Respect. That’s the word. Not foisting your beauty of ugliness on others. But that is Balinese culture. Spiritual. Understanding. Living as one with nature.



GRAND HYATT NUSA DUA check in reception area Bali


The approach to the Grand Hyatt Nusa Dua is akin to arriving at a fancy golf course. And yes, I notice the golf buggies tucked to the side. More on these later.

In true Balinese custom, you are greeted at the kerbside by smiling faces. Your bags are then ushered to the nether regions of “somewhere” else, only to pop up like a magician’s rabbit in your room, “sometime” later.






Everything is big here. Giant white columns, sweeping terracotta roof tiles, reflecting pools with lily pads and vertical, protruding reeds. A penetrating view leads your eyes over a bamboo floral piece and through more trees; your final focal point – the ocean.

And that’s before you get to the check in desk on your left!


GRAND HYATT NUSA DUA HOTEL REVIEW lobby table flower arrangement


My check-in was melancholic in some respects. An anticlimax. A great arrival diminished by the needless fuddling through bureaucracy and paperwork chaos. I was shown a seat (no, I was directed to find my own… which I achieved without help) whilst they did whatever they did with my passport. 15 minutes later I was back at the counter to do more paperwork.

It was an unnecessary digression that could have been handled better.

I was handed my key and a map of the hotel resort grounds (more on this later too) and off I went following my lovely guide. It was then that I realised just how huge the place was. Around the corner I went, into an elevator, up two floors, around more corners and bingo, into my room!




I wasn’t expecting the older looking room that greeted me with old paintings and old furniture. When I contemplate the brand “Hyatt”, I tend to think modern. Often convention-styled. But this room was darker than I had anticipated, lots of neutral marble colours and dark woods. Yellow light.

The space was definitely large. Even the furniture looked small and therefore dwarfed by the vastness of open areas. The desk was more of a side table than a working area. But this was contrasted by a huge bed with a runner across it.




To the right side was a nook or day bed. I wondered why. I already had a bed.

The saving grace was a glorious balcony overlooking a coy carp pond edged with grey volcanic rock. Giant pam tree reached to the skies. Manicured lawns filled small spaces.




The bathroom was really an extended room with faux slated windows that filtered in the light from the bedroom. These too were framed by more dark wood. It kept the space airy and well-lit and more open-planned. I can’t remember if you had the option of a blind to cordon off the sleeping and bathroom areas for more privacy. I was on my own and comfortable with my own nakedness and toilet habits.


The bath tub was massive too and I did use it once to rest my weary limbs. And then there was a separate shower with heavy glass doors. Even the toilet had its own self-contained room with a diffused glass slide door.

For cupboard space there was plenty from the hallway. More wood: more wooden shelves and frames, wooden hangars, wooden doors. But this was traditional Balinese décor. It grew on me.

A small safe was on offer. I used it out of habit, not through fear.





I had arrived on the Jetstar “red eye” to inspect hotels for four days….16 hotels to be precise! This was to be my home for two nights and I was keen to just chill and grab a beer with one of our cohorts. Well that was the mission. Of course, being “Mr Know-It-All” I left my hotel room without the map, after all, who needs a tourist map at a hotel?


Clearly, I did!

The Grand Hyatt Nusa Dua is like a warren. A short walk to meet a colleague became an episode of Lost in Space. I ended up completely going in the wrong direction, on the wrong floor. And it didn’t end there. Once I found him, we both got lost hunting down a bar!

Which brings me to another point. Why were so many bars at the hotel closed during the day? It’s meant to be a resort, right? Thankfully the Poolside Bar was open for business and that first Bintang beer hit the spot first time.

It did take me two days and lots of walking to get my bearings. To find the beach, the umpteen swimming pools, the many dining areas. Mind you, I spent most of the daylight hours away from the resort. No time for sunbathing and relaxing.







The Garden Café was my preferred breakfast spot, directly in front of the main lobby area. I was early enough to enjoy eating outside, before the heat and humid smashes and saps you. It is meant to be “international” in flavour offering Asian and European dishes and the setting is pretty decent with decent waterfall and lagoon views. The only let down was the its raison d’etre: its food! It was average in selection, presentation and ultimately delivery and taste.


Breakfast: 6:30 AM – 11:00 AM
Lunch: 11:00 AM – 6:00 PM
Dinner: 6:00 PM – 11:00 PM


Directly off the main lobby Grand Hyatt Bali overlooking gardens and lagoons

Seating Capacity

Min (Wet): 152 People
Max (Dry): 180 People


GRAND HYATT NUSA DUA HOTEL REVIEW Salsa Verde breakfast buffet


Salsa Verde has all the right ingredients for greatness: location, pool, space, ambience. It is Italian by design with Californian décor and a pretty decent buffet breakfast selection. I will say this: the coffee was excellent, but there was nothing “wow” about the food. It was churning out convention quantities without Italian qualities.


Breakfast: 7:00 AM – 11:00 AM
Lunch: 11:00 AM – 6:00 PM
Dinner: 6:00 PM – 11:00 PM


Beachfront of Grand Hyatt Bali




Pasar Senggol was the dining highlight of my stay, designed to be like a Balinese night market with scattered stalls, authentic dishes and a smattering of artisans creating local handicrafts. The buffet selection was amazing. I can recount going back (often) for the satay sticks and other delicacies that I then brushed with more chili to spice up the night. A big thumbs up.  You also get a live performance with Balinese music and dancing; not my thing but entertaining.


Breakfast: closed
Lunch: closed
Dinner: 6:30 PM – 10:00 PM
Cultural show: 7:30 PM – 8:30 PM


Directly off the main lobby Grand Hyatt Bali



Definitely my favourite spot. Secluded, sophisticated and modern with amazing views and fabulous service. Live entertainment was awesome playing great foot-tapping tunes, modern and old. Gin and tonics hit the spot.


Open Daily 10:00 AM – 12:00 Midnight

Morning Menu: 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM

Afternoon Tea: 2:00 PM – 5:00 PM

Evening Menu: 5:00 PM – Midnight



Lobby level



This may be a 5-star resort but the food is definitely far from it (except for the Indonesian Pasar Songgol restaurant on site). I travel extensively throughout Asia and this place pales in comparison to other buffet breakfasts I’ve had in the last three years. They are not all bad. They just lack variety….particularly if you are calorie counting and want a healthier chioce. But if it’s any consolation, many Balinese hotels are the same.

After my first impression of the hotel room, I warmed to it really well. In fact I loved it. This includes the day bed or nook that I panned earlier. I sat every day there with my laptop doing some work and just chilling.

The Grand Hyatt Bali Nusa Dua is best described as a tired resort in desperate need of room makeovers and food improvement. The location is stunning and the facilities perfect for anyone want a less crazy pace and family escape.

W Bangkok Hotel Review

Oh, my god, “Come to Papa!”   Those were literally my first thoughts, as my taxi pulled up to the front of W Bangkok. I just knew I had arrived somewhere in the vicinity of heaven and all the angels were going to fawn over my bags and swallow me up into their air-conditioned abyss-of-a-lobby.   Which they did.   I have never been so pleasantly shocked as I was, walking through those slide doors and into one of those classic Hanna Barbera cartoon moments, when Tom gets smacked in the face by Jerry with a frying pan.   Let’s just say that it was eye-opening!


Lobby check in desks with giant crystal studded mural behind


Waiting for check in


Ground floor check in deck at W Bangkok



The lobby was a vast swathe of real estate that was barely occupied by small smatterings of perfectly clad people, that somehow paled into the background, like accessories to a fashion show.   I couldn’t tell if I was in the shoot, or on the set.   Of part of a flash mob.   To my left was a courtesy stand with rose-scented water (I’ll come back to that later). On my right was a long reach of tables and computers and immaculately groomed bowing employees, attending to the few and mostly querulous travellers. At the fore was a massive black marble mural, encrusted with thousands of tiny crystals. I believe it portrayed the tussle between a swooping dragon and a pugnacious tiger.   It was a modern take on traditional Thai art.   The check-in desks were topped with black marble too, yet their facias were lit up with glaring, neon purple.   A small “Welcome” sign beckons me.   I focused on the first letter: “W”.   Was that intended?   Of all the 40 or 50 hotels that I’ve visited in the last 6 months, none have made me stop in my tracks, before checking in. This was a first time.   Ever.   Zero, zip, have made me meander and snoop around before going through the necessary sign in process. I was captivated by the moment. Kind of enmeshed in my own private awe. I felt like blotting paper (for those that can remember such ancient necessities).   I was really, truly, amazed.   Absorbed.


Socialising and mingling at the WOOBAR during the day


The WOOBAR during quieter day time hours

Behind and to the left (of the “rose scented” water stand) was the WOOBAR. Another neon, electric place; too early for people to chill at 10am, except the tired and industrious. Both were there.   One guy was sprawled over a white leather arm chair. He was either asleep. Or dead.   I had barely parted with my credentials and I was already getting the gist and flavour of W Bangkok. I loved it. I didn’t want my bubble to be burst by the perfunctory and mundane informalities of give-me-your-money-and-passport. But like all good stories, it had to end.   “Is Mastercard okay?” I mumbled, breaking the ice.


Very cool W Bangkok hotel room key card – pug dog wearing sunglasses


I relented and “did my bit”, grabbed my very cool room key (it was embossed with a pug dog wearing red sunglasses), and then followed my guide, past the huge windows and merchandise stands, before turning sharply to the left and the elevator doors.


Corner merchandise area for buying W branded goodies


Where to buy some W branded souvenirs before checking out


A wall of Tuk Tuk lights come alive outside the elevator doors



If you’d asked me two months ago about W Hotels, I would have spat up a cat fur ball of “what-ness?” A big dollop of “huh?” And a lot more, “Seriously!”   But now that I’ve passed my apprenticeship, I’m a fully-fledged and badged convert that is fleet of foot and carrying secrets, learnt en route.

W BANGKOK HOTEL REVIEW-view-from-the-24th-floor-Sathorn-Road

View from the 24th Floor elevator lobby down Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangkok.

And here is one.   An elevator (or lift) may be the arterial vein and spine of a hotel property, but I also know that W Hotels values it. It is not just a conveyance between two points, but an integral part of the W experience.   In my very own surgical way of analysing hotels, I now smile, knowing that it is cutting-edge marketing. Leading from the front. Management dexterity. Proving that all details in a hotel matter, not just a few. Every aspect of hotel living has been considered and every step managed.   From concept to implementation.   Rest assured, nothing is boring in a W hotel.


Waiting for the lift doors to open with tuk tuk brake lights glowing

Every W property has its own signature theme and generally this is when the light-bulb-in-the-head goes off and you go “Oooohh!” or “Wowww!”   As I pivoted on my heels and turned the corner to the left, I was met by a dark, purplish cove that lit up with an ever-intensifying crescendo of glinting car brake lights. I felt like Dougal, my old black Labrador, when he was confounded by the unknown. He would cock his head to one side and raise his ears. As if I would have an answer to his WTF problem!   And then the flashes and glinting started to quicken and fill the void, until the entire wall was a mass of seething, flashing, rush-hour madness. I was transfixed until my lovely guide interrupted.   “These are tuk tuk lights.”   I totally got it. Clever!   We’re in Bangkok!   For the first time, I chuckled. Warmly. To myself.   I cannot pinpoint the exact moment when infatuation kicked in, or later when the warm, fuzzy feelings of syrupy love filled the void. But it must have been somewhere then.   As I was about to be “run over”!   I was picking up on subliminal messages. Nuances. Themes. Purple. Dark. Moody. Sexy. Fun.   I had no idea what I was in for, but whatever metamorphosis was happening, I didn’t want it to end.   Even if I was about to be flattened by 100 tuk tuks!


Hotel corridor on the 24th floor of W Bangkok.


When the lift doors opened on the 24th floor, it was a solemn moment.   There was no sense of “arrival” like at the W Hong Kong. Nor was it clinical, like at W San Francisco. No, it was sort of middle-of-the-road. In between. It was actually quite refreshing, after my metaphorical episode of lobby road rage.   I turned right into the seeming darkness and ambled a few metres towards my room. The number was clearly lit up and hard to miss. Music was playing in the background. Softly.


Room Number sign outside my hotel room.


As unlikely as this sounds, I rarely research a hotel before reviewing it, because I like my first impressions to be precisely that: untainted, unclouded and uncluttered by marketing hype. But I did unearth one little mystery before booking into the W Bangkok. I had been forewarned that my room would be unique and triangular in shape.   This vision had taxed my over-active imagination for the entire flight from Perth to Hong Kong and then Bangkok. Even as I walked those final paces down the corridor, I had delusions of Toblerone chocolate and cheese wedges. But all that dissipated when I prised open the door to a very different setting.   I had another private “wow” moment to myself.


Spectacular King Size Bed. Really comfortable!


Giant golden muay thai boxing gloves on bed

There was nothing overtly triangular or pointy about the room at all. In fact, the shape was kind of lost in the immensity of open planned space, where bursts of colour leapt from the backdrop of black and white monochromes. Little accents blended with bold patterns and modern furnishings. Ingenious and fun cameos of Thai boxing leapt out from the bed cover print, with sparing dragons.   And then there was the folly of oversized muay thai boxing gloves. Big, fat, gold ones. I think they were supposed to be used as DO NOT DISTURB signs that you hung outside the door. A bit more fun.   Another chuckle.   For the first time in my W experiences, I actually understood the W concept. This really was a “Spectacular Room” in every sense of the meaning. From the joie de vivre of hotel living, to the creature comforts of a king size bed.


Glass deck by window


Fantastic desk plug set up for the travelling businessman

A wide glass desk was a luxury that straddled the window. The view was nothing special but that was immaterial, as the functionality of the work space mattered most to me. I spend a lot of time on the road and the bank of plugs, with built-in adaptors, was much appreciated. An instant solution for the plethora of camera gear and computers that traipse around the world beside me.   Innovation and high technology are synonymous with W Hotels and indeed, my Spectacular Room.   Master lighting controls are wall-mounted beside the bed, though I did notice how the stickers (WAKE UP, READING LEFT, SLEEP MY LOVE, MASTER OFF) had all been stuck to the original chrome plate, by someone that must have warmed up in the cocktail cabinet beforehand!   Clearly they didn’t care how askew or straight the labels were affixed!

W BANGKOK HOTEL REVIEW bedside table with light switch

Bedside table with master light switch and LED clock.

W BANGKOK HOTEL REVIEW labels for light switch on wrong

Light switch labels unaligned and gone mad!

Joking apart, the tags like “SLEEP MY LOVE” are fun and gimmicky, but not when you are tired or waking up, or when your brain is less engaged. Clearly the original concept failed, because no one could read the embossed plates, hence the new, bigger white stickers. Even then, I had issues in the morning trying to figure out what switch did what. I just pressed every button until the right one worked. I would call it bedside Russian Roulette!   There was an iPad on the other side of the bed, which had swipe and touch controls too. But you needed a visa to get to it, as it was so far away!   Yet the one image, that still sticks in my mind the most, is the sheer volume of space. 43 square metres of it. I never felt trapped or confined. To the contrary, I felt liberated and relaxed. At no time did I have to tip-toe around bags or furniture.   It was like the perfect bachelor pad.


Spectacular Room cupboard hanging and storage space.



Smooth finishes define the texture in the Spectacular Room and this includes the white hallway cupboards that run flush to the walls.   When you open the doors, the interior is brightly lit, revealing two chrome hanging racks and a plethora of black wooden hangars. A low level 3-drawer chest sits in the corner. The top drawer conceals a deep electric safe deposit box. Deep enough to take a camera or two!   Of course, the W Signature Bathrobe was a welcome sight, as were the white slippers and luggage rack.   I put the fold-out rack by the window and left my suitcase on it for the entire three days.


Drawer safe in passageway cupboard.

Beyond the cupboard was a dark, recessed wall of faux black leather, that housed a giant flat screen TV and a mini bar with glasses, chrome ice bucket and cocktail shaker. There was enough alcohol to comatose you in one session, if you were so inclined.

W BANGKOK HOTEL REVIEW-post-it-note-coupons

A few Post It note coupons to use during my stay.

I reflected how most hotels hide their alcohol from sight, but not the case with W Bangkok. Here they champion consumption as part of modern living, not something to bury in political correctness and banish from view. Of course, part of that openness has a lot to do with “add-on sales” and very little to do with being “cool”. There is a price list beside every temptation and nothing that says “On the House,” except for branded water bottles!   And then I remembered my cluster of colourful Post It Note coupons, that I had been given upon check-in. A quick scan reinforced the same thoughts. Spend more money and you’ll get a bonus! But I really didn’t mind. I was having a great time. And in fairness to W Bangkok, it was part of the experience. Like being woken up from a jet-lagged induced coma to answer the door from housekeeping.

W BANGKOK HOTEL REVIEW cocktail kit how to make a gin and tonic

My cocktail kit tray – how to make an Iron Balls G&T.

I was really in no mood for a turn down service, but almost instantly, my “F***ing hell,” turned into “F***ing great!”   A smiling face pushed past me and placed a complimentary tray on the coffee table. It had instructions on how to make my own Iron Balls G&T.   I smiled all over. I felt like a kid doing his first cooking class. Like I’d never been angry. This was my new toy and no one else was going to play with it!     Or drink it!

W BANGKOK HOTEL REVIEW Gin and tonic made on bed

The end result – Iron Balls Gin & Tonic in bed!


Kidney shaped bath tub for two!

It is these little details, that turn into big moments, that define a modern day 5-star hotel. It tells the paying punter that he matters. That he exists. That he’s noticed.   As I cherished my new creation, having loved the process of making and then imbibing this gift, I couldn’t help feeling that this surreal moment was better suited for W Hong Kong. At that hotel, it is all about Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Yet oddly, the colours, the cocktails, the potions, the affectations and foibles, the eccentricities were in greater abundance in Bangkok. Here you lived the story all the time, not some of the time.


The bathroom is the first sight you encounter when entering the room. It’s a vast open-planned area that is partially segregated from the lounge by a giant wall of thick purple glass. It is stunning. It breathes life into the space, breaking the monotony of corridor monochromes with a flash of bold colour. It’s a statement in its own right and part of W’s colour branding.


Bath tub with glass wall and desk in background.

Almost simultaneously, your eyes are drawn to a white, kidney shaped, free-standing bathtub in front of the same glass wall. It is inviting. Designed for two people. Another stand-out feature that breaks the hotel industry norm.   A thin gold curtain can be drawn across the face of the bathroom for further privacy, separating the bathroom from the passageway.


Bathroom layout with toilet behind glass doors in the corner left.


Black tiled bathroom walls are a feature at W Bangkok.

The toilet has its own enclosure encased by dark, smoky glass and lined with black tiles throughout.  It is not totally transparent.   A wall mounted mirror hangs above the vanity and sink. The entire frame has a sort of theatrical feel, with strong backlighting. Even the shower curtain plays on the theme of drama, with a silvery shimmer.   I get the feeling that W Bangkok wants everyone to feel like a movie star.   My only negative is storage space. I’m use to big bathroom counter tops in hotel rooms, but at W Bangkok, there is no room for a wash bag next to the sink. Mine’s not that big, but my goodness, a woman would be in serious trouble with all her travel lotions and potions!


Bliss Spa products beside the sink.

What limited space you are offered is taken up with a sprinkling of Bliss bathroom goodies on one side and W-branded water bottles on the other. Yet it is not all doom and gloom. Butting up against the sink is a tall shelving ladder. Like old English library steps. I shunted the complimentary items to one side and squashed my trusty wash bag there. It stayed there for the entire duration of my stay.   It just took a little while to get used to that spot.


The Kitchen Table – one part of the breakfast set up – bread selections


I’m going to go on a limb here, because of all 50 or more hotels that I’ve visited this year, W Bangkok takes top honours. Without exception.   W Bangkok consistently and unquestionably delivered excellence throughout my stay. Its food was not just good. It was great. Something that I never expected before my stay, but hey ho, surprises abound and I welcome them.   Breaking with my own tradition, I am going to review all the bars and restaurants at W Bangkok separately and in greater detail.  They deserve their own plug. But for now, here is is a brief summary to chew over.


Busy traffic for breakfast at THE KITCHEN TABLE.


Chefs in action at THE KITCHEN TABLE work stations.

The variety and choice of meals here was outstanding.  Take THE KITCHEN TABLE for instance, where breakfast is a medley of Western and Asian offerings. I visited here every morning and it was heaving with conference attendees and families and people like me. But when it came to lunch, it was a more sedate affair that unravels its gourmet secrets and triumphs in the process.


HOUSE ON SATHORN front view with main W Bangkok hotel to the left.


Front facade of the THE HOUSE ON SATHORN.

My second hero is THE HOUSE ON SATHORN which achieves another pinnacle of culinary and cocktail genius. It is detached in its own world, despite being part of the bigger hotel complex that overshadows it.   Originally built in 1899, this colonial, neoclassical mansion has become a Thai national heritage home. It sits within the hotel’s courtyard. It is the perfect complement to W Bangkok’s modernity, a reminder that style and panache has its roots in history somewhere.   W Hotels shape that past and carries the torch forward for today’s traveller.  For me, I see the light too. It is not about staying at a hotel. It is about living in one.


THE COURTYARD receiving some necessary shade from surrounding buildings.


Aerial view from the hotel looking down into THE COURTYARD.

Within THE HOUSE ON SATHORN is THE COURTYARD, which as the name suggests is precisely that: a courtyard.   It is flanked by the taller and colourful surrounds of colonnades and arched windows. The terracotta roof tiles It’s an informal and open-air dining area situated on wooden decking. Umbrellas provide shade and shelter from all the elements, though little use for the stifling humidity.


Young group hanging around the main bar at lunch time.

And then there is THE BAR inside THE HOUSE ON SATHORN.   THE BAR is beautifully faithful to its colonial past and another era when it was the Russian Embassy (1948-1999). I’ve had the good fortune to be in a real Russian embassy before, where everything was an overstatement of machismo-grandeur and one-upmanship. Today, stripped of its diplomatic pomp, THE BAR takes on a whole new air of excitement. It is not a contrived cover for national insecurities, even though there are trickles of past over-exaggeration: giant Corinthian columns and heavily vaulted ceilings; panelled walls and parquet floors. And it’s definitely a wood carver’s paradise. But no, the transformation into THE BAR is stunning, a trifecta of Thai, Russian and modern revival rolled into one. The interior design has been brilliantly executed balancing dark and chunky leather seating with soft cushions and smooth wall colours. The space is immensely inviting especially the bar which beckons like a glowing and colourful LED altar.


Barman in action making my cocktail.


My special Gin & Tonic W Bangkok style!

The cocktail choices were both alluring and inspiring. I left not just with an impression, but a lasting memory.


Night time view from the courtyard looking at THE HOUSE ON SATHORN.


One of my greatest pleasures being a travel writer and reviewer is when I run across unsung heroes and heroines in the hotel world. I call them stars. And such was the case meeting Natcha Booncharoen, Assistant Marketing Communications Manager, W Bangkok.   Natcha invited me to dinner at THE DINING ROOM. I normally accept dinner appointments without flinching, but what is really weird, is that it was on my last night in Bangkok and I really didn’t want to go anywhere, let alone to dinner.   My gut was saying, “Go!” and my heart was saying, “To bed!”   I was tired and overdosing on W. I’d been tarred and feathered with a punishing schedule and the lure of any other “letter”, in the alphabet, was infinitely more attractive than the “double V”. Or W.   But she persisted and nudged. Nicely.   And I accepted.   My deference to socialising that evening mutated into one of the best experiences of my life, not just in Bangkok, but in all my professional wanderings.   Natcha had booked us a prime perch at the bar at 6.30pm. The place was empty which was perfect in my calendar of do-nothingness. And the fact that we were at the bar, peering into the kitchen woke me up instantly.   For those that know me really well, this is where and when I’m most at home. The Bar and the kitchen.   As I said before, I will review this separately and later, but I cannot pass over this point now without comment, because I was entertained, tantalised, treated to a medley of extreme culinary skills that rendered me completely mute.   It wasn’t just the food, the taste, the inspirations that excited me. Those were just chapters in my W saga. It was the whole story.   Eating food was just part of that journey.


HOUSE ON SATHORN – one of the many beautiful dishes.

Natcha’s company, knowledge and energy got me through the door and for that reason, she gets gold star number one. She got me eating, drinking and learning.   Another trifecta. Star number two goes to Chef Fatih Tutak and this needs some explaining. I did a kind of double take when I discovered he was Turkish, not out or prejudice but out of respect. And a degree of humour. Proof to the hoity-toity institutions (French) that think they own cooking (English) that anything is possible with talent (Turkish).   Chef Fatih was groomed at the Bolu Mengen cooking school in Istanbul and then climbed the ranks with stints in Beijing, Tokyo, Singapore, Demark and Hong Kong.  One of his most notable ranks was as the Chief Sous Chef at the Marina Bay Sands Hotel.   I love how he’s taken his globetrotting experience to THE HOUSE OF SATHORN with flair. It is almost rude to call his talent “cooking”, because his creations are masterpieces of art. A fusion of the senses: taste, sight, touch, smell.


My incredible menu at THE HOUSE ON SATHORN.

With Chef Fatih at the helm, THE HOUSE ON SATHORN has been acknowledged as one of the top 50 restaurants in Asia, not just in Thailand. And this is where I love W Hotels: always two steps ahead. Winning.   Another “W”.   Which brings me to my third and final gold star, Volker Burth, Director – Food & Beverage.   This was not a planned encounter. It was an off-the-cuff, per-chance meeting. At the bar. My favourite board room venue. It was fascinating.   After twenty minutes chatting to Volker everything made sense. I knew why the food was so good at W Bangkok.  It came to passion as well as craftsmanship. Pushing the boundaries of excellence. Giving people not just food but a total experience.   I had reached the end of my Thai trail, my magnum opus, my piece de resistance. It was like grouting tiles. The perfect smooth finish.  It has opened my eyes to a whole new world of W Hotels that I want to experience. Like collecting rate coins or gems.


WOOBAR lit up at night.



This is the third WOOBAR I’ve been to in a year and W Bangkok is definitely the most glamorous to date, yet I have to say, not the most fun. W San Francisco wins the fun gong, so far. However, I have to take that opinion with a modicum of salt since I am just passing by for a fleeting moment.   The bar stretches the length of the room and is a continuum of the lobby theme: black marble, studded crystals, glowing neon purple. It is ultra-modern with contrasting monochromes of white leather arm chairs dotted with black throw cushions, as well as white modular cubes and bar stools. Even the floor is a heavy contrast of linear tiles in various hues of white and grey, counterpointed by a deep, dark black carpet.   The centre of the bar breathes life and soul into the place. A single shelf runs the full course of the wall which is a silvery-white shimmer. It is host to a giant row of liqueurs and spirits that beckon you.   I visited the WOOBAR quite a few times, outside of regular drinking hours and I was not alone with my laptop. It was a very soothing and professional feel.   On another occasion, I took refuge there in the air-conditioned space trying to recover from walking up to the Banyan Tree hotel (about 2kms away). Not a good idea in the sweltering humidity. I was overheating. And there, like an epiphany, was the rose flavoured water stand (I promised earlier I would return to this subject).  Now I know why it was there. I recharged my body several times with this elixir, using cocktail napkins to wipe my brow. The WOOBAR became my saviour.   And then there was the time when my lovely masseuse at the AWAY SPA said, “We have a men’s night here.” The conversation went along the lines of, “Why should there only by a Ladies Night in hotels?”   I nodded agreement. What a clever marketing idea. Another win for W Bangkok. This would pull the single ladies in. The bar would be packed. What a fun night!   No. Not a fun night if you are straight! She forgot to use the word “gay” man’s night!   Luckily for me, I had somewhere else to go for dinner. I decided, after one too many flirtatious moments and pursed lips, to slide carefully into the nether regions of the lobby and into Sathorn Road. My metrosexuality had reached its finality.

FIT GYM at the W Bangkok

FIT GYM with TV on wall, running machines and access to swimming pool.

The Walking Critic becoming the "Running Critic!"

The Walking Critic becoming the “Running Critic!”


Living on the road, in and out of hotels, consuming vast amount of liquid and solid calories needs a counterbalance. The Fit Gym is where you start that process.   The gym at W Bangkok is clean and modern and by the pool. The equipment and running machines are perfectly adequate and I have to say, I really enjoyed going there. The hotel offers complimentary towels and water and pretty much everything needed to shed a tiny bit of that fat build up. The staff could not have been friendlier and more helpful. More into customer service than “look how big my muscles are”!


My masseuse at the Away Spa – W Bangkok


I had been instructed by the cavalcade of women in my life that I was not allowed to come home unless I had experienced the AWAY SPA at W Bangkok. Part of this was a jealous wish to experience the treatments themselves. The other part was to see me squirm.   I think they had a morbid fascination with my total lack of spa lingo. Words like facials, body scrubs, wraps, Espa products, Style Lab Beauty Salon, unisex Hammam….all these fall outside my vernacular. I related to them about, as much as I would reading road maps in Cantonese!   But this is where my metro-sexuality kicks in. I quite like a bit of pampering. I just wonder why I don’t do more outside of international travel. I’ll have to redress that some time. I looked at the 6-page  AWAY SPA meu and found this:   AWAY MASSAGE METAMORPHOSIS   OUR UNIQUE SIGNATURE MASSAGE, METAMORPHOSIS WILL SEND WAVES OF RIPPLING ENERGY THROUGHOUT YOUR BODY’S ENERGY SYSTEMS UNLEASHING A RENEWED YOU. THIS TREATMENT IS DESIGNED TO CREATE A METAMORPHOSIS EFFECT BEGINNING WITH A NURTURING WELCOME, COCOONING YOU TO A PLACE OF ESCAPE WHERE YOU CAN RETREAT FROM THE WORLD AND UNDERGO YOUR OWN PERSONAL DETOXIFICATION. RELEASE TENSION AND TOXINS FROM THE BODY, FOCUSING ON THOSE TIGHT AREAS THAT ACCUMULATE DAILY STRESSORS OF LIFE, THE HEAD, NECK, BACK AND SHOULDER AREAS. WITH OUR SIGNATURE ESSENTIAL OILS, REFUEL AND UNFURL YOUR WINGS WITH A FULL BODY MASSAGE LIKE NO OTHER YOU HAVE EVER EXPERIENCED.WITH RHYTHMIC AND DYNAMIC FLOWS, STROKES, STRETCHES AND TECHNIQUES TO EMERGE FROM YOUR COCOON INTO A BEAUTIFUL SOCIAL BUTTERFLY READY TO SPREAD YOUR WINGS AND TAKE FLIGHT.   “This is a massage right?” I asked the giggling girls. “What’s with the wings and butterflies bit?”   I booked in for a 90-minute session costing 3,500 BHT (or about AUD $135). This part I could understand on the extensive 6-page menu! And then I was lead off through the doors to metamorphose into an insect.   The inside of the AWAY SPA is amazing. I have done my fair share of treatments around the world and in hotels but this was noticeably more soothing, calm and clean. My masseuse spoke really good English and was excellent. I don’t like soft or hard massages. I like them in between and she nailed it. She was also fun to talk to and really informative when I wasn’t drifting off into nirvana. After an hour and a half, I was indeed recharged. I’d been promised a hot and soothing ginger tea at the end of my session which I got. I felt immensely at peace. Collecting my thoughts. Purged of stress. I was indeed ready to spread my wings.


Lots of laughs whilst having my manicure

Manicure at the Away Spa W Bangkok

Definitely doing better after my manicure at the Away Spa

Before I left, I rebooked for a nail treatment the following morning. She nailed it again.


I am so glad that I listened to my inner instincts and embarked on my own journey of discovery with W Hotels, because it has allowed me to understand who they are and where they are going to. In doing this W Bangkok hotel review, I have sat up to take notice of things that I would otherwise have missed before. And I feel as if I have barely scratched the surface of what is out there in W World.   I love their innovation and sensory excitement. It’s welcome change from  the monotony and routine of other hotel chains. And I cherish the individuality of each property, whilst recognising the threads and colours of the W brand. It makes me want to experience more. To see what secrets each W Hotel holds, at every spot and exotic destination. Just to say “I’ve been there!” W Bangkok has set a benchmark that I will judge other hotels by. The inculcation of local culture, the infusion of quality dining, cutting edge interior design, attention to detail, personality, energy, innovation. And for me, humour. Fun.   W Bangkok is inordinately sexy. The people, the food, the cocktails, the architecture, the interior design, the vibe. All the ingredients point towards excellence and what should be a litmus test for other 5-star hotels.


W Bangkok 106 North Sathorn Road Bangkok, 10500 Thailand Telephone: +66 (0) 2 344 4000


If you liked my W Bangkok hotel review, please feel free to leave a comment.


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