Singapore is one of those places that appears to have been designed with a ruler.
The roads are clean. The trains run on time. The airport is almost offensively efficient. The buildings sparkle. The gardens are immaculate. Even the drains seem to have their lives together.
And then you eat.
Suddenly the perfectly polished city gives way to hawker centres, steaming bowls of noodles, chilli crab, chicken rice and flavours that have absolutely no interest in being restrained.
That's the Singapore I find interesting.
Because Singapore is much more than the gleaming city-state presented in the glossy brochures.
It is Chinese, Malay, Indian and Western. It is traditional and futuristic. It is luxury hotels and hawker stalls. It is colonial architecture sitting beside skyscrapers. It is serious business during the day and remarkably good fun once the working hours are over.
And it is a city where you can spend a considerable amount of money having a very ordinary experience—or eat brilliantly for very little.
Which, as a critic, naturally interests me.
I've travelled extensively through Asia and spent decades working within the travel industry, watching Singapore evolve from an important Asian commercial centre into one of the world's great international cities.
It has become exceptionally good at looking after visitors.
But polished doesn't necessarily mean interesting.
The real pleasure of Singapore often lies beneath the obvious.
It's wandering through neighbourhoods rather than simply photographing the skyline. It's discovering a restaurant that doesn't need a fashionable address. It's understanding why a particular hotel is genuinely special rather than simply expensive. It's finding the remnants of the old Singapore beneath the extraordinary modern city.
And then there is the food.
Singapore takes eating seriously.
Very seriously.
Sometimes the most memorable meal will arrive on a plate costing a fraction of what you paid for dinner the previous evening.
That is part of the fun.
The Singapore pages of The Walking Critic will explore the city through hotels, restaurants, neighbourhoods, attractions, shopping, food, culture and experiences.
I'll look at the places travellers are told they must visit—and occasionally ask whether they're actually worth visiting.
I'll look at the hotels that deserve their reputations, the restaurants worth seeking out and the experiences that genuinely reveal something about Singapore.
And I'll look beyond the obvious.
Because Singapore doesn't need me to tell you that Marina Bay is impressive.
You can see that from the photographs.
I'm more interested in telling you what it feels like to be there.
Is the hotel worth the money?
Is that restaurant really as good as everyone says?
Which neighbourhood should you actually wander around?
And when you have only a few days in Singapore, where should you spend them?
Those are much more interesting questions.
Singapore may be polished.
It may be efficient.
It may sometimes feel as though someone has just finished wiping the fingerprints off the entire city.
But underneath all that order is a wonderfully messy mixture of cultures, histories, flavours and people.
That's the Singapore I want to explore.
And preferably, I'll do it with something delicious in front of me.
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